Jayavarman VII’s Faces of Stone

jayavarman faces angkor
If you have visited the temples of Angkor, you probably still remember the impressive face towers of Bayon temple.  These enigmatic and slightly smiling faces carved in sandstone are the signature of the  king Jayavarman VII. This design is very important in the  Angkorian architecture and unique among all archaeological sites of South East Asia.

To this day,  the meaning of these faces is still a mystery: some authors are connecting these faces to Shiva, Brahma, Avalokiteshvara,  Buddha or to the King Jayavarman II himself.

So how many faces can be found in Cambodia? 300 is  probably a good estimate and with Bayon alone counting for 200 of them. These faces can be found on the side of  towers of  temples  in Angkor and beyond, some in very remote area.  If you want to visit all the sites with face towers, it is a long  journey that we take you hundreds of kilometers on both side of Angkor. We found that face towers are the most spectacular and enigmatic in remote temples where they are still surrounded  by jungle and hidden away from tourists. In Angkor, the best way to see the face towers is to join us for a day of adventure with  e-bikes.

 

BAYON TEMPLE (JAYAVARMAN)

Face towers temple by design, Bayon has an unique and imposing architecture. Whether you look at it from far or close from the upper terrace, the faces carved in sandstone are unique and best seen early morning or the evening at the golden hour.

Bayon temple is the with the highest concentration of face towers and is also the top 3 visited temple in Angkor.  Many photography opportunities exist from the upper terrace as it is possible to frame the faces with many compositions. It then become quite a game of composition for photographer to find new angles and play with the window openings.

 

Note: From January 2020, the upper terrace of the Bayon temple will be closed to the public due to the start of a restoration undertaken by Japanese Government Team for Safeguarding Angkor (JASA). The exact duration is not known but we can expect it to last few years (3 to 5 years) as it is a major archeological work

 

Bayon temple face Angkor photography tours

 

bayon faces

 

bayon stone faces golden hour

GATES OF ANGKOR THOM

 

Angkor Thom is an ancient fortified city of 3 square kilometers with five entrances and .surrounded by a moat It was also the last capital of the Khmer Empire. Each gate has  a  20-meter tower with 4 faces and 4  three-headed elephant. All  20 faces are intact but n the the last 5 years, some faces have been secured by metallic cables.

 

angkor thom gate face jayavarman

Face carved on Angkor Thom West Gate in Angkor Thom Cambodia. Angkor Thom was the last capital of the Khmer empire during the 12th century.Selective color

 

 

 

 

 

TA SOM TEMPLE

 

 

Ta Som is a small temple located just east of the Preah Khan Baray or (Jayatataka) with two face towers. The  East gopura is photogenic although the strangler fig does not grow directly around the faces.  50 years ago when the number of tourists were very low, the western gopura was one of the most famous spot in Angkor with a tree growing around one face. Unfortunately the tree was cleared up in the 60’s.

 

ta som temple face tower ta som hidden face

 Photo credit: Luc Ionesco.

BANTEAY KDEI TEMPLE

 

Few hundred meters from Ta Prohm, lies the less visited temple of Banteay Kdei (the citadel of chambers ) with  four entrances, most visitors are familiar with the eastern and western ones.

 

 

banteay kdei entrance

 

 

TA PROHM TEMPLE

 

Built in the 12 century by Jayavarman VII and dedicated to his father, Ta Phrom is one  of the most famous temple with Angkor Wat and Bayon, Ta Prohm has four entrances with tower faces. The eastern entrance gate is partially collapsed and unfortunately  do not have any standing faces. The  western  is intact but the most interesting one  is the less visited northern entrance. At the end of 2017, a side of the tower  collapses as a tree holding the structure went down because of a  landslide. The gate was partially restored  in June 2018.

 

 

 

ta prohm temple gate restoration

 

ta prohm temple gate

 

Northern gopura before the landslide

ta phrom temple northern gopura

 

 

BEYOND ANGKOR

 

BANTEAY CHHMAR TEMPLE

Banteay Chhmar is a large temple complex in Banteay Meanchey Province, nearby the Thai border. Research has shown that Banteay Chhmar  had originally  28 face towers, but because its remote  location it was not saved from the jungle like Bayon at the beginning of the 20th century and many structures collapsed in the last 100 years.  Its proximity to Thailand made it also a target for looting. Today, some beautiful face towers remain in the temple itself and in its satellite temples. To read more about Banteay Chhmar please have a look at our blogpost.

banteay chhmar temple

banteay chhmar face tower

face tower in banteay chhmar temple

 

 

PREAH KHAN KOMPONG SVAY

 

Preah Khan is probably one of the most remote Angkorian temple built under the reign of Jayavarman VII. This huge complex has only a small temple with a face tower. To learn more about this temple, please have a look at our blog entitled the enigmatic temple of Peah Khan of  Kompong Svay.

preah khan kompong svay photography tour

8 Good Reasons to do a Photography Tour in South-East Asia

travel photography tips

Photography tours are becoming increasingly popular and are now available globally, with options to explore destinations ranging from Iceland to Antarctica, and from New York to Paris. These tours offer a combination of exploration and learning opportunities, making them suitable for both experienced photographers and beginners. They provide opportunities to discover new places and cultures, explore lesser-known locations, take amazing pictures and improve your photography skills.

South-East Asia offers a plethora of destinations for photography tours, including Siem Reap, gateway of the temples of Angkor (Cambodia), Hoi An, Ho Chi Minh and Hanoi  (Vietnam), Yangon (Myanmar), Bali (Indonesia), Bangkok (Thailand).

In this post, we will examine eight compelling reasons for considering a photography tour during your next holiday in South-East Asia.

1.Improve your photography skills

A photography tour in South-East Asia is an ideal opportunity for even the most experienced photographers, including those specializing in sports, wildlife, or wedding photography, to improve their skills. The diverse range of locations and subjects available in South-East Asia offers endless photographic opportunities, many of which may be outside of your comfort zone. From capturing workers harvesting rice on paddy fields, ancient temples, to taking portraits in busy food markets, a photography tour in South-East Asia will challenge and inspire photographers of all levels.

vietnam photography tour

Rice harvest at sunset in Hoi An Vietnam

 

local market cambodia photography

Local market scene in the morning in Siem Reap Cambodia

 

2. Enjoy people photography

When living  in South-East Asia we often take for granted that taking pictures of people is  easy to do. Due to privacy concerns, it is almost impossible in the West except during large public events. In  Asia,  people often get into the game and even sometimes  ask you to take pictures of them:)

 

vietnam photography tour

Cute elderly couple in Hoi An Vietnam

 

smiling and smoking Cambodian man

Worker taking a break in a knife workshop in Siem Reap Cambodia

 

market siem reap

Two Cambodian women selling betel leaves in a local market in Siem Reap Cambodia

 

3- Photography Tours Asia: Discover a Country from a New Perspective

During  a photo tour , you will be guided by a photographer who is always looking for new places and has been living in the area for many months or many years. This considerable asset  will allow  you to have access to some locations out of the beaten path which often are not available during  a “normal” tour. Often,  the photographer has develop some relations with locals, speak some of the language and this will be valuable in people photography. You might have access also to remote locations with tribes or be the witness some local Buddhist ceremonies.

 

siem reap photography tour kids running countryside

Kids plating in paddy fieds in Siem Reap Cambodia

 

 

 

Buddhist ceremony in a local monastery

 

tatoo women myanmar photography tour

Face-tattooed women in a remote village of Myanmar

 

4- Photography Tours Asia: Pushing the Boundaries of Your Photography Equipment

Sometime, at the end of a tour, it happens that some  guests decide to upgrade their camera system or buy  new lenses.   Whether you have a  entry level camera, you will test the limit of your equipment: shooting a low lights with moving subjects in some festivals or in  markets with dimmed lights. You might no get also the nice bokeh you were expecting in your portraits.   Common purchases are wide angle lenses to do architecture shots or a portrait lens.

 

angkor wat circumambulation

Khmer family going around the main tower of Angkor Wat temple

 

angkor wat photography tours night

Angkor Wat under a starry sky before sunrise 

 

5- Meet like-minded people

 

If you take part in a photography tour  with a small group of people especially for few days,  it is likely that you will a blast together, keep in touch and maybe even do another trip together in the future. For many people,  a photo tour remains the highlight of their trip in Asia.

 

 

countryside sunrise photographers

 

 

6- For beginners,  a  quick way to improve your photography

 

Many people start learning  photography by taking theoretical courses in a classroom with little or no practice. During a photography tour, a lot of  the time is spent on hands-on practice and because of on many different situations encountered during the  day (sunrise/sunset, low light, portraits,architecture shots), you are most likely to make long lasting improvement on your photography. You will look after very differently at the triangle of exposure:)

 

silk farm puok cambodia

Silk farm in Siem Reap Cambodia

 

sun star bamboo forest

Bamboo forest with shining sun in Siem Reap Cambodia

 

 

7- Get to the best locations  with the best light

 

Photography is all about light and when exploring a  new place, knowing  the best photographic  spots with the best light  is very difficult even after some prior  extensive research online.  Depending on the destination (cities, archeological parks, national parks), it can take months to know the best shooting locations and the best angles. Even if seasons are not marked so much in South-East Asia, there is an impact  photography.  In Angkor Wat temple for example, the path of the sun is drastically different between June and December making  shots very different depending on the season.

During the monsoon,   your photography leader will  guide you around the locations  to get those nice reflection shots.

 

Panoramic view of Bayon temple in Angkor Thom Cambodia with water reflection. Bayon temple was built late 12th century by Jayavarman VII.

 

angkor wat sunrise reflection

 

devata carvings in Angkor Wat

Beautiful devatas carvings in the temple of Angkor Wat Siem Reap Cambodia at sunrise

 

 

8- Go back home with great pictures

Because you have being in the right locations  with the best  light, and had guidance during your shots, you will be sure  to go  back home with  the best pictures of your holidays. Why not make a coffee table book of your best pictures to show your friends and plan together your next photographic adventures?

 

photo book Cambodia photography tour

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6 Top Reasons to Use Your Smartphone for Travel Photography

Smartphone cameras have come a long way with a dramatic increase in  picture quality the past few years,  so much that it made point and shoot cameras almost obsolete and that smartphone photography is a now a category of its own. The latest  smartphone cameras have high megapixels sensor (20+ megapixels) and  new features as dual lenses to reproduce the bokeh effect.

Huawei P10 Plus, the last flagship model of the brand  features a main camera with 20 MP Monochrome and a 12 MP RGB, F1.8 sensors.  IPhone 7 Plus has two 12 MP  sensors with  28/56 mm equivalent focal length (F1.8/2.8 aperture).

We will not discuss in this post the quality of smartphones  but rather their use in travel photography.

1. Take snapshots

The most obvious of course: sometime when we travel especially we do not have always carry our camera but most of he time we carry a smartphone in our pocket. I wish I had taken the shot below with my Canon though:)

yangon photography walk rangoon burma

Group of young nuns carrying alms bowl  in the streets of Yangon Myanmar (Huawei P9 Lite)

 

yangon street photography

Smoking Burmese cigar in the streets of Yangon ( (Huawei P9 Lite)

 

Your camera phone will be useful to document your trip (for example take a picture of a train ticket or a street sign) and will save you space on your memory cards.

 

2 – Keep a low profile

In travel photography especially when taking  portraits or life scenes, the  approach is quite critical to get the best shots as possible. I have found that sometime a smartphone can help “breaking the ice”: after the subject being more relaxed, they can be less intimated by your  big camera.

 

yangoon street photography

Young Burmese boy wearing thanaka in the streets of Yangon (Huawei P9 Lite)

 

rangoon street photography

Young Burmese boy wearing thanaka in the streets of Yangon (Canon 750D).

Some places like museums forbid the use of a camera in their premises, so if you want to document your visit, a smartphone camera is very handy. Do not forget to deactivate the flash and shoot in  manual mode (set the ISO) when you shoot indoors.

 

3- Geotag your pictures

You might not have a GPS chip in your camera so taking few pictures on location with your smartphone will help you later to document your trip and come back later on location especially in areas where Google Maps do not have data.

 

4- Look at different angles, take difficult shots

Before getting out your camera from your bag, it is sometime useful to look at composition with your smartphone to find new angles. It is useful to know at this stage  what is the 35 mm equivalent of your smartphone camera:  Huawei P9 lite is equivalent to a 27 mm so it will make sense to use a full frame with a 24 mm lens for example.

 

As they are relatively small and light smarphone can be placed in places where a camera cannot fit. An example bel0w  of a staircase in yangon where my DSLR could not go through the grid.

old staircase yangon myanmar

A old staircase in Yangon captured with by Huawei P9 Lite

 

 

5 – Promote your work on social media

Nowadays even in some remote locations in South-East Asia you will be surprised to get a 3G/4G signal, the data package are as well very affordable and you can have a number and several GB of data for less than USD 10. On top of that with powerful editing application such as Snapseed with which you can edit and even make promotional material. This alone justify to take your smartphone when you are on a photo expedition.

If did not bring your laptop during your trip and that your camera has Wi-Fi &NFC functions you can upload low resolution pictures to your smartphone, edit them with Snapseed and share them online.

 

 

6 – Take panoramic pictures

 

When shooting panoramic pictures,  I tend to use most of the time my smartphone camera instead of my Canon 5DMKII as it lacks a panorama mode . It is best to take panoramic shots with the camera positioned vertically rather to horizontal to have a ratio close to 16:9. If you manage to include a person in  your shot like o the picture below it is even better.

Taking a quick panoramic shot is also a way to check if its is worth taking it with a DSLR and go through the tedious task of stitching pictures.

 

Maha Bandoola Garden Yangon

Panoramic shot of Maha Bandoola Garden in Yangon city center (Huawei P9 Lite)

 

panorama angkor thom cambodia

Panoramic view of one of the gate of Angkor Thom in Cambodia (Huawei P9 Lite)

The enigmatic temple of Preah Khan of Kompong Svay

Preah Khan of Kompong Svay (not be mistaken with Preah Khan temple  in Angkor), also called Prasat Bakan by the locals,  is a remote archeological site located 100 km from Siem Reap as the crow flies  in Preah Vihear province at the eastern end  on the ancient royal road from Angkor.

Preah Khan  is the single biggest temple complex built during the Khmer Empire occupying an impressive footprint of about 22 kilometers square, 11 times larger than Angkor Wat and 2 times larger  than the city of Angkor Thom. Because of its remote location  (more than 200 km one way  from Siem Reap including about 70 km of unpaved road) it  receives  less than 10 visitors daily.

The layout of the temple is unique compared  to the other sites  in Angkor as it is oriented northeast. It has been proposed that the temple is aligned with the raising sun during thee summer solstice.

A  large baray of 3 km long  lies on the east with a temple called Preah Thkol in the middle similar to the West Mebon in Angkor.  It was built between the 10th and 13th centuries in  different stages during the reigns of Kings Suryavarman I, II and Jayavarman VII. The influence of  Jayarvaman VII  is clearly visible in  Prasat Preah Stun which has with a four-faced tower similar to the Bayon temple (see picture below).

 

Rediscovery

The rediscovery of Preah Khan is credited to French explorer and artist  Louis Delaporte who lead a expedition  there in 1873. At the end of their visit they took many statues which are now at the Guimet museum in Paris : among them, a naga  garuda and an elephant statue from  Preah Damrei (see picture below).

Because of its remote location and lack of security,  the site was badly sacked during the 1980’s and 1990’s and even more recently in 2003. Even so, some  beautiful pieces like doors and lintels are still there. The causeway crossing the moat (mostly dry like in Beng Mealea) has many garuda carvings on both sides.

Exploring the site can be quite difficult because of the dense vegetation there and the absence of clear paths.

 

Recent  archeological missions

The Cambodian Archaeological Lidar Initiative (CALI)  known for his groundbreaking discovery of the first Khmer empire city, Mahendravarpata, in Phnom Kulen and  in 2014 did a survey of  Preah Khan in 2015 and confirmed the previous layout  of the temple. They confirmed that Preah Khan was an important iron smelting center at the height of the Khmer Empire. 90 structures were identified within the four enclosures of the temple.

Another project called The Two Buddhist Towers  lead by a multidisciplinary team of researchers (UCLA, University of Illinois, University College London, EFEO,…) aims to study the transition from Mahāyāna to Theravāda Buddhism at Preah Khan did some excavations in 2015 and 2016. Three Chinese coins dating from the 10th and 11th  century were found confirming the importance of his  site during the Khmer Empire.

LIDAR preah khan kompong svay

LIDAR image of  Preah Khan of Kompong Svay

 

Main entrance of Preah Khan of Kompong Svay

 

preah khan kompong svay photo tour

Buddha niche at Preah Khan Kompong Svay

 

Atmospheric entrance in Preah Kompong Svay

 

Garudas below the main bridge of Preah Khan of Kompong Svay

 

luis delaporte preah khan kompong svay

The same garuda bridge by Louis Delaporte in 1873

 

Remain of a lion statue

 

preah khan kompong svay photography tour

Laterite towers in Preah Khan Kompong Svay

 

 

preah khan kompong svay photography tour

Beautiful door at the main temple of Preah Khan Kompong Svay

 

preah khan kompong svay photography tour

Temple ruin in preah khan kompong svay second enclosure

 

 

preah khan kompong svay photography tour

Temple ruin in preah khan kompong svay second enclosure

 

preah khan kompong svay photography tour

One of the two elephant statues remaining statue at Preah Damrei. Louis Delaporte took one back to France in 1873.

 

 

preah khan kompong svay photography tour

Bayon like temple in Preah Khan Kompong Svay

 

preah khan kompong svay photography tour

Beautiful Naga with Garuda at Preah Damrei

 

Tree growing on one of the temples of Preah Khan of Kompong Svay

 

preah khan kompong svay photography tour

Devata at Preah Damrei

 

preah khan kompong svay photography

Preah Stun , a surprising Bayon look alike temple in the jungle

 

 

 

Preah Khan of Kompong Svay is best visited during the dry season when the unpaved road is in fairly good condition.  It is a 1-day trip  from Siem Reap  that can be combined with a visit to Koh Ker or Beng Mealea. A 2-day trip with a visit to Preah Vihear can also be arranged. If you like to do a private photography tour of this enigmatic and beautiful  temple, please contact me.

World Heritage Historic Houses of Hoi An Central Vietnam

hoi an old city houses

Hoi An is a charming and picturesque little city  located near the coastline in Central Vietnam. Once a major trading port between the 16th and 18th centuries, it managed to retain to this day some of his architectural heritage. The old city spreads on  30 hectares and  is listed on the UNESCO Word Heritage since 1999.

Although many of the 1000 old  houses in Hoi An  are now converted to tailor, souvenir, coffee shops and restaurants due the booming of both international and national tourism (more than 2 million tourist in 2016), an handful of preserved houses are open to the public. To  visit them, you need to buy a 120 000 VND ticket (about USD 5),   valid for only 5 world heritage sites. This post lists all  heritage houses you can visit with one pass.

I would recommend  to start your visit around 8 am to avoid  group tours that can spoil your experience and make it difficult to take pictures. The advantage also is to be able to use a tripod as the interior of some houses is really dark. Except for the ancient house, each site is  only few  minutes apart by walk.

 

Tan Ky house (101 Nguyen Thai Hoc St)

Named after  its builder Tan Ky, this house  is the  most popular heritage house in Hoi An, also the first one to be listed on the national heritage of Vietnam in 1985. Built in the late 18th century, its  architecture is   a combination of   Japanese, Chinese and Vietnamese styles. Two entrances are available,  one facing the river but unfortunately the first  floor is not open to the general public. It is not the best house to take interior pictures as often crowded with groups.

A short five  minutes introduction is given but some members of the founding family  before you can wander around. On one wall, water levels due to floods are recorded, the last one being  in December 2016 which lasted for 4 days.

Tan ky old house hoi an photography tours

Interior of Tan Ky old house in Hoi An

 

tan ky old house hoi an

Old bed displayed in Tan Ky old house

 

Phung Hung House (4 Nguyen Thi min Khai St)

Not far from the famous Japanese covered bridge,  Phung Hung is a two-stories private house built in 1780 with a combination of  Japanese (four-sided roof), Chinese and Vietnamese styles. A  balcony with a nice vintage on the street below and on the room below is accessible. A small tour with few explanations is given to you when you enter the premises. It  is one the best house to  take interior pictures because it is quite large and bright. A shop selling embroideries is located on the second floor.

 

Phung Hung old house Hoi An

Interior of Phung Hung old house in Hoi An

 

Phung-Hung heritage house house Hoi An photowalk

Interior of Phung Hung old house in Hoi An

 

Phung-Hung heritage house house Hoi An

Interior of Phung Hung old house in Hoi An

 

 Quan Thang  house (77 Tran Phu St)

Built by a Chinese merchant in the late 17th century, Quan Thang  is a one-story shop-house with some interesting architectural details especially the teak walls. No explanations about the house was given by family during the visit. The back of the house is private so photographic opportunities are quite  limited.

 

Quan Thang Hoi An photowalk

Interior of Quan Thang old house

 

Ho Chi Minh portrait

Portrait of Ho Chi Minh in Quan Thang house

 

quan thang house ancestor portrait

Portrait of an ancestor at Quan Thang house altar

 

Duc An old house (129 Tran Phu St)

Duc An is  an heritage house built in 1850 with some timber carvings. The house was a bookstore at the end of the 19th century and Chinese   medicine dispensary  during the 20th century. Unfortunately a souvenir shop is now located on the back of the house thus restricting photography. There was no guide during the visit.

 

 

Duc An old house Hoi An

Interior of Duc An old house

 

Duc An Hoi An photography tour

Interior of Duc An heritage house in Hoi An

 

Duc An medicine dispensary

Old medicine dispensary in Duc An old house

 

Tran Family Chapel (21 Le Loi St)

Tran chapel is a beautiful house built   in 1804 by  Tran Tu Nhac  with purpose  to worship his ancestors. Architecture reflects Japanese (five  columns), Chinese (turtle roof) and Vietnamese (bow and arrow)  styles. The house has three entrances, a beautiful waiting room leading to the atmospheric ancestors’altar with stone tablets. A shop is located  at the back with some interesting Yin Yang coins and few Piastres from the Indochina period. The guided visit was one of the best of all the houses.

 

tran chapel family hoi an photography

Waiting room in the Tran Chapel family

 

tran chapel family hoi an photography

Waiting room in the Tran Chapel family

 

Tran Tu Nhac, the founder of the Tran Chapel

 

Ancestors of the Tran family

 

floor tiles heritage house hoi an

Beautiful floor tiles in Tran Chapel family

 

than chapel Hoi An photowalk

Detail of a drape in Tran Chapel Hoi An

 

yin yang coins Hoin An

Yin Yang coins in Tran Chapel Hoi An

 

 

 

Ancient House (104 Thai Phien St)

One of my favorite heritage house situated in the northern part  of the old town. Built  250 years ago  on one floor with 4 rooms  it has an unique  Vietnamese architecture. A cluster of beautiful red lanterns are hanging in the entrance room and carved pillars are well preserved.  Hosts are  quite friendly and invite you for tea and biscuits to reply to questions you might have. Entrance is free so if  if you do not want to buy anything from the shop,  a donation box is available. Ancient House receives only few visitors daily so  you are likely to be alone during your visit.

 

ancient house hoi an

Ancient house interior Hoi An

 

ancient house hoi an red lanterns

Red lanterns in ancient house Hoi An

 

carved pillar ancient house hoi an

Beautiful carved pillar in Ancient House

 

red lanterns ancient house

Red lanterns in Hoi An Ancient House

 

ancient house hoi an photowalk

Glass window detail in ancient house Hoi An

 

 

Diep Dong Nguyen house (82 Nguyen Thai Hoc St)

This old house built late 19th century has been converted to a museum displaying ceramics  and furniture. Of particular interest is the wooden facade of the house with no windows. You do not need the old town ticket to visit the premises.

 

Diep Dong Nguyen house Hoi An

The beautiful wooden facade of Diep Dong Nguyen house

 

Diep Dong Nguyen house Hoi An photowalk

Porcelain displayed at Diep Dong Nguyen house

 

Diep Dong Nguyen house Hoi An photo walk

Resident of the house burning incenses for prayer

Old Colonial Architecture in Yangon Myanmar

yangon heritage houses photography tour

Yangon is the city with the highest density of colonial buildings in South East Asia. Known as Rangoon,  it was the capital of Burma between 1824 and 1948 and one of the province of  the British India Empire. It witnessed a rich architectural development during this period  following  different styles: Art Deco, Edwardian, Victorian and British-Burmese.

Many buildings were built for Scottish companies like Burmah oil, Brothers & Co, A. Scott&Co, Messrs Bulloch Brothers & Co to name a few which operated successful businesses in oil,  import/export of  commodities,  shipbuildings, etc…

Natural disasters (the earthquake of 1930, cyclone Nargis in 2008) and the bombings of Word War II inflicted severe damages to the city and many buildings were lost forever.

The isolation of the country for 50 years after the military coup of 1962 did not help. With all these events, it is actually surprising that so many colonial buildings are still standing today. In 2005, many  government offices were moved to the new capital Naypyidaw, about 350 km north of Yangon and definitely closed.

Nowadays,  many large colonial buildings are occupying  downtown,  along Merchand and Strand roads, and  also on Pansodan street. Some of them have been renovated like  Aya bank headquarters, City Hall  or the Strand Hotel, a famous five stars built in 1901.

This photo essay is focusing on the beautiful and neglected  colonial buildings which will either disappear or being restored in the coming years.

Because of safety concerns some places such as  the Pegu Club are not open  to the general  public anymore. Some others, like the secretariat building,  are under  renovation.
Entering a neglected colonial building in Yangon is like taking a time machine and one cannot help wondering  how it was back then when these places were home of powerful trading houses, banks or offices.

Nowadays, small business offices are sometime occupying premises and  bring some life to these places. Some private buildings have interiors in fairly  good condition and can be accessed after of course seeking the authorization from the owner.

The state of disrepair of some buildings is  such that trees start growing on the walls and entire structures have collapsed.

You can spend hours wandering  in the streets of Yangon looking for unlocked buildings. It is not uncommon while exploring these locations that a friendly local gives you a bit of history about the places, they understand their potential to attract tourists interested in colonial architecture.

Founded in 2012, the Yangon Heritage Trust (YHT), has for goal  to identify and preserve  colonial architecture  in Yangon. YHT installed blue plaques on buildings with historical significance to raise awareness among the public, the first one was installed in 2014 at the City Hall.

 

In 2017, Yangon is at a crossroad and time will tell if authorities in charge manage to save this unique architectural heritage in South-East Asia.

 

 

Old staircase yangon photowalk

Defunct elevator in dilapidated colonial building

 

Defunct elevator in fairly good condition

 

Neglected colonial building from 1905 and its gatekeeper.

 

Apartments building in Yangon downtown

 

Relics of yangoon

Dilapidated colonial building in downtown Yangon

 

Relics of yangoon

Beautiful wooden  staircase in a private building

 

Relics of yangon

Neglected staiway in a colonial building

 

Tenants walking down a beautiful rusty stairway

 

Dark staircase in an abandoned colonial building

 

staircase yangon photo walk

Crumbling staircase in an old building

 

Beautiful wooden stairway in private building

 

Some families are still living in their colonial homes

 

Pickerings elevator rangoon

Amazingly, Pickerings company still exist today and is still manufacturing elevators

 

Beautiful metal staircase with rich pattern

 

Details of ceiling at the Inland Water Office

 

yangon photo walk old building

Beautiful old colonial building interior

 

Heritage photowalk yangon

Metal fence outside a colonial building

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Central Vietnam Hoi An Photography Tour

Join me and Etienne Bossot for a 3-day photography tour and workshop around Hoi An Vietnam on 28,29,30th April 2017. This is a fantastic opportunity to discover Central Vietnam, improve your photography skills and come back home with great pictures. During these three days, we will focus on landscape and people photography with three sunrises scheduled. Besides Hoi An, other locations include Lango Co bay and Tam Giang lagoon.
A night photography session in the colorful city of  Hoi An is also part of this 3-day workshop with some sessions to review your pictures.

This workshop, limited to 10 people, is priced at the competitive rate of  385 US dollars with the following included: accommodation / transportation / all meals/ tips to the locals.

To get to Hoi An, the fastest way is to fly to Da Nang  airport which has as direct flights from Siem Reap, Singapore, Hong Kong, Tokyo, Seoul, Kuala Lumpur and Bangkok. Please send an e-mail to info(at)picsofasia(dot)com for any inquiries and bookings.

To get a better idea of the photographic opportunities during this tour, please have a look at the pictures taken by Etienne Bossot in the slideshow below:

Photography Holidays


If you do a photo tour with us in Angkor, you are entitled to a 10 % discount for a photo tour in Hoi An in Central Vietnam. Just mention the reference “sent by Angkor!” during your online booking at Hoi An photo tours

Huawei P9 lite review for photographers

I recently upgraded  my smartphone to a Huawei P9 lite and took  it with me in the temples of Angkor during my photography tours along with a 5D Mark II.

The P9 lite, released in April 2016,  packs a 13M-Pixel (4160X3120pixels) CMOS Image Sensor (Sony IMX 214, 1.12µm pixels) with a   f:2.0 front camera. It lacks the dual Leica  lens system and raw capture from his counterpart the Huawei P9 plus. Focal length has a 35 mm equivalent focal length  of a 27 mm.

 

Camera operation

The camera has a quick access and when in standby it is very quick to start. By sweeping left one can access the menu to switch to pro photo. In this mode,  shutter speed, ISO and white balance can be changed.   When shutter speed is determined by the camera,  exposure can be adjusted with the exposure compensation slide (-4 to +4 eV).  Three  focus mode are available: AF-S (spot), AF-C (continuous) and MF (manual focus). White balance can be changed to the usual values from tungsten to cloudy. Like in many  DSLR, 3 metering modes  are available: spot, center-weighted and evaluative. ISO can be set between 100 and 1600 ISO. In auto, the camera can set it as low as 50 ISO.

 

HDR mode

HDR can be useful  to get more details  in the shadow. The HDR mode of the P9 quite good , however there is no option to chose the strengh of the processing.  It works particularly well with textures like on this 9th century temple strangled by a tree in the lost city of  Koh Ker in Cambodia.

 

prasat pram koh ker huawei p9 lite

 

 

Macro

The P9 do not have a  dedicated function for macro  but the focusing distance of  about 3 cm make up for it. The amount of details picked up by  the camera is quite impressive. This macro shot of a praying mantis was shot in a very bright light and the details are in the same levels than a DSLR (the DSLR shot being slightly out of focus). For comparison you can see below a  cropped version of the P9 and a Canon 750D side by side:

 

praying mantis macro picture Huawei P9 lite

huawei p9 lite dslr side by side

 

insect macro huawei p9

 

 

Panorama mode

angkor temple photography panorama huawei p9 lite

Panorama mode is accessed from the camera by sweeping up the screen from the left. From there is an option to do either horizontal or vertical panorama.

Generally the stitching is quite good although errors can happen at low ambient light. One of the main drawback I have  found is that it is not possible to lock the exposure before taking a panorama so it high contrasted scenes are difficult to capture.

 

Night Photography

 

pagoda siem reap huawei p9 light painting

Light painting on a pagoda. Pro photo mode 8 s pose, ISO 100

 

Swiping up the screen from the  left let you choose  two modes: night shot and light  painting. In  night shot mode, ISO can be set up between  100 and 1600 ISO and shutter speed  up to 32 seconds. Using the 2-second timer (by  swiping up screen from the  right) helps to avoid blurry pictures.

The second mode available is Light painting  and has 3 presets:  Tail lights, Light graffiti, Silky water and Star track. They differentiate themselves by the ISO settings: Tail lights, Light graffiti: 64 ISO / Silky water:  auto ISO / Star track: 800 ISO. All presets allow very long exposure time, the camera stays open until  the shutter button is pressed again. Pro mode can be used  for  night photography but exposure time is limited to 8 seconds.

The Light graffiti preset was designed to write letters or paint shapes in the dark with a LED light but it can be used in more creative ways  to  create abstract backgrounds like this backlit laptop  keyboard below.

laptop keyboard graffiti mode huawei

Laptop keyboard backlit. Graffiti mode 7.2 seconds, ISO 64

 

Slow Motion

The Huawei P9 can record slow motion at 120 fps but be aware that the resolution is quite low at only 640X480 pixels (VGA). You can see on the video below of a lotus flower opening, both normal and slow motion sequences (4 times slower).

Conclusion

The Huawei P9 lite  is the ideal companion for any travel photographer and has a good image quality. Of course it cannot be compared to a DSLR but in some situations it can the best camera as it can fit in your pocket. The different modes available  allow you to produce some really creative images.

 

 

bayon temple huawei p9 photography tours

 

devata bayon huawei p9

 

 

beng mealea huawei p9

The atmospheric temple jungle of Beng Mealea

Angkor Temples Under the Stars

angkor temples night photography

From time to time, we have requests about capturing the Milky Way or star trails in the temples of Angkor. Unfortunately due to the  archaeological  park’s  opening hours (most temples are only open between 7.30 am and 5.30 pm), night photography in the temples is quite difficult.
January and February are the most favorable months to take pictures of the temples under the stars.  Angkor Wat temple opens at 5 am therefore  it is  possible  to capture long exposure of the night sky. Of course you will not be able to do very long star trails and only several minutes long exposures. Like for any astrophotography,  you have to be aware of the phase of the moon as a full moon will disrupt your plan to get a starry sky.  Here are few night pictures below we capture in the temples of Angkor, we will update  this gallery from time to time with new shots.

 

 

Phnom Bakheng temple under a  full moon

Phnom Bakheng temple is a 10th century hilltop temple, very popular as it drawn thousands of visitors everyday for  sunset. Going there at sunrise  is a unique photography experience even with a full moon.

 

phnom bakheng temple stars angkor travel photography

Phnom Bakheng tower under the stars illuminated by a full moon

 

phnom bakheng temple full moon night angkor travel photography

Phnom Bakheng shrines under the full moon

 

Angkor Wat under the stars

Angkor Wat under the stars is  a  challenging capture as  your camera  will facing  east. Also, because the temple opens  at 5 am,   it is, for many months of the year,  already too late to capture the stars. Another challenge is coming for the light pollution from the  numerous LED torch used by the earliest visitor to navigate in the park at night. In the two pictures below you can see three of the five towers of  Angkor Wat illuminated by those LED’s. Despite all that, it is still possible to see stars above Angkor Wat temple just before the astronomical sunrise.

angkor wat photography tours night

Angkor Wat under thousand of stars

 

angkor wat photography tours night

Angkor Wat temple before sunrise under starry sky

 

angkor wat photography tours night

Angkor Wat temple before sunrise under starry sky

 

angkor wat photography tours night

Angkor Wat library under the stars

 

 

Bakong temple after sunset

In the picture below, the beautiful three-tiered Bakong temple mountain, built during the 10th century is in the  company of Jupiter and Venus in this rare planetary conjunction taken in October 2015.

venus jupiter conjunction Bakong temple

Bakong temple after sunset with Venus and Jupiter

 

 

Bayon temple under the moon full

 

 

bayon temple full moon

Bayon temple lit up by full moon

 

If you are looking for a photographic  challenge and want to capture Angkor under the stars we will be happy to assist you, please have a look at the many photography tours  we have at www.angkorphotographytours.com.

Most Memorable Photos from 2016

2016 in pictures angkor photography tours

The year 2016 ended in a wink. Nevertheless, it was a year full of sweet recollections and splendid adventures, as I travelled here and there, meet new people, and experience new cultures.  Looking through my collection of more than 1000 edited pictures of 2016, I was inspired to select my favorite ones. I picked these pictures not only based on my own personal choice of uniqueness and aesthetic value, but also, by the stories behind.

These photographs and memories were taken in Cambodia, Vietnam, Thailand, India, France, and the Philippines from my 2016 travel diary.

 

1. Cambodia : Angkor Wat Solar Eclipse – March 2016

angkor wat solar eclipse photography tour

 

This unique picture was taken on the 9th March during a partial eclipse of the sun in Angkor Wat Temple. What make this shot rare is that of the date of the eclipse was less than 2 weeks away from the spring equinox and it was possible to find a shooting location where the sun was just above the central tower at the maximum of the eclipse. According to  ephemerides, the next partial solar eclipse in Angkor Wat temple during sunrise will take place in 2042 ! Due to the nature of this  eclipse, so the passing of the moon in front of the sun could be only be captured using a very dark filter in this case a 10-stop neutral density filter  ND1000 which blocks 99.9 % of the incoming light coming to the sensor. This is a one-of-a kind, unforgettable shot in Angkor Wat as we  were only 2 photographers at this spot. Others have vanished to go see the other temples and most people except few guides were not aware of the solar eclipse that day. To see more pictures of this solar eclipse please have a look at my blog post.

Settings: ISO 400, 105 mm,  f:4, 1/40s, ND 1000 filter

 

 

2. Ho Chi Minh City : Street Scene – April 2016

Saigon street photography tour

Ho Chi Minh is a sprawling city of 8 million and with almost as many motorbikes racing in its streets. Here you can find places to service your motorbike even on sidewalks.

While inside a coffee shop (which is also numerous in Saigon) my attention was caught by this colorful poster across the street. I took few shots of it alone  but it did not come out very well. By moving few feet, I got a much better picture : framing the customer with her red dusk mask waiting for her motorbike to be serviced against the blue metallic wall, while the poster of a future housing development was in the background. The black and yellow line worked as well as a leading line to connect all  the elements of the picture.

Settings: ISO 160, 20 mm, f:7.1, 1/100s

 

3. Cambodia : Boy Planting Rice, April 2016

flooded paddy fields siem reap photo tour

During the month of April, Cambodian farmers are busy planting floating rice on the West Baray, one of the biggest man made reservoirs in the word build during the Khmer empire in the 11th century.To get closer, we boarded a  small fisherman wooden boat  and it was when I took a shot of this  Cambodian kid, knee-deep in water, smiling despite the  hardship of his  work.

Settings: ISO 100, 168 mm,  f:5.6,  1/500 s  

 

 

 

4. Cambodia : Angkor  Wat Vesak Day – May 2016

angkor wat khmer family vesak day

This picture was taken beside the main tower of Angkor Wat (also called Bakan) which is also the most sacred place of the temple. This Khmer family was walking counter-clockwise making several rounds around it, and I waited there to frame the shot with my  20 mm, the minimum focal length from this corner  to fit all the building in a horizontal frame. This scene was taken 2 days before Buddha’s Day (Vesak Day). The act of walking around a sacred temple is called circumambulation and is an integral part of Hindu and Buddhist devotional practices and usually done clockwise.

Settings: ISO 250, 20 mm, f:7.1  1/800 s   

 

5. India : Ladakhi Monk in Lamayuru Monastery- July 2016

This picture was taken during our first photo tour in Ladakh India, more precisely in Lamayuru monastery about 100 km from Leh. We visited Lamayuru Temple during the 3-day annual colorful monastic festival. This monk posed for a brief moment, adjusting his robe, just enough time for me to frame a shot with the door. The colorful mural with its main character looking at the monk add another dimension to the picture.

Settings: ISO 640, 32 mm, f:4, 1/160 s

 

 

6. India : Milky Way in the Himalayas, July 2016

milky way ladakh himalaya photography tour

During our photo tour in Ladakh, we spent several nights in tents at an altitude of 4700 meters. Even during summer months, temperatures goes down below 5 degree Celsius at night. Adding to that the altitude sickness, this night shot sessions was quite challenging but looking at the starry skies and the Milky Way stretching over the Himalaya mountains was quite rewarding. In this shoot the illuminated tent is the one we used for our dinner and gives a touch of color and a sense of scale to the picture.

Settings: ISO 2000, 20 mm f:2.8, 30s

 

7. Thailand : Suvarnabhumi Airport in Bangkok  at Golden Hour –  July 2016

Suvarnabhumi aiport bangkok thailnd photography tour

This shot was taken at the international airport of Bangkok at sunset. Suvarnabhumi, the busiest airport in Thailand handled more than 50 million passengers in 2015. This section of the terminal although not so photogenic came out much better for few minutes with the evening sunlight  illuminating  nicely the arched rooftop.

Settings:  ISO 400, 84 mm, f:4 1/25s

 

8. France : French Medieval Castle at Sunset – October 2016

Beynac castle dordogne France photography tours

During a scouting photo trip in the region of Dordogne in France, famous worldwide for its food and castles, we ended up the day at the village of Beynac-et-Cazenac  just in time for sunset with a view of  the  Beynac Castle built on on a limestone cliff and overlooking the river. This  12th century fortress was built around the same than Angkor Wat temple in Cambodia  and it is tempting to compare the austere architecture of the fortress with the scale and symmetry of Angkor and its fined carvings. Also on the 12th century, only 50,000 people were living in Paris against  800,000 in Angkor according to last LIDAR survey.

Settings: ISO 200, 24 mm, f:5.6,  1/320  s

 

9. Cambodia : Betel Leaves Vendors – November 2016

elderly betel vendors at market siem reap cambodia

In Cambodia, betel consumption is not as widespread as in Myanmar. Most of the time, only the elderly are munching betel unlike in Myanmar where you can see young people chewing them. In this picture, a wooden basket with fresh betel leaves is standing on the floor in front of this two smiling elderly Cambodian ladies.  The three other ingredients making up the so-called betel squid missing from the picture are areca nut, tobacco and lime water (saturated solution of calcium hydroxide).

Settings: ISO 400, 38 mm f:4, 1/160s  

 

10. Cambodia : Red Angkor Wat Sunrise, November 2016

angkor wat sunrise siem reap photography tour

Out of the many sunrises at Angkor Wat temple I have witnessed in 2016, this one was one the most spectacular hat  I have seen. The bright red dramatic cloudy sky were just breathtaking. This picture was taken around the end of November when monsoon season was coming to an end.

Settings: ISO 320 , 20 mm, f:5.6,  1/80s

 

 

11. Philippines : Here Comes the Bride, December 2016

Bride Intramuros Manila photography tours

I took this quick shot at San Augustin Church in Intramuros Manila just when the bride was making her entrance. Intramuros is the frequently visited area in Manila where two beautiful churches are located not far from each other. You can visit the area by taking a horse carriage (kalesa in Filipino), but one of the best way for photographer is to wander around the cobble stone streets in order  not miss any photographic opportunities.

Settings:  ISO 500, 35 mm, f:2.8, 1/15s

 

12. Philippines : New Year Fireworks in Manila , December 2016

Manila new year fireworks photography tour

 

This picture is one of my last clicks of 2016 taken just 5 minutes before New Year’s Eve in Metro Manila. New Year in this megacity is celebrated with loads of fireworks and firecrackers that lighten up the skies around the city. Fireworks and firecrackers are grand spectacles during this year end celebration. The adverse effect though is that hundreds of people injure themselves every year using firecrackers and it gives raise to a peak in particles pollution few hours after.Fireworks were scattered and I was lucky to have a vantage point from a rooftop with the neon illuminated Rockwell Center in Makati just in the frame. Several shots were combined in Photoshop to  have more firework explosions.

Settings:  ISO 100, 25 mm, f:9, 30 s (composite picture)