Preah Khan of Kompong Svay (not be mistaken with Preah Khan temple  in Angkor), also called Prasat Bakan by the locals,  is a remote archeological site located 100 km from Siem Reap as the crow flies  in Preah Vihear province at the eastern end  on the ancient royal road from Angkor.

Preah Khan  is the single biggest temple complex built during the Khmer Empire occupying an impressive footprint of about 22 kilometers square, 11 times larger than Angkor Wat and 2 times larger  than the city of Angkor Thom. Because of its remote location  (more than 200 km one way  from Siem Reap including about 70 km of unpaved road) it  receives  less than 10 visitors daily.

The layout of the temple is unique compared  to the other sites  in Angkor as it is oriented northeast. It has been proposed that the temple is aligned with the raising sun during thee summer solstice.

A  large baray of 3 km long  lies on the east with a temple called Preah Thkol in the middle similar to the West Mebon in Angkor.  It was built between the 10th and 13th centuries in  different stages during the reigns of Kings Suryavarman I, II and Jayavarman VII. The influence of  Jayarvaman VII  is clearly visible in  Prasat Preah Stun which has with a four-faced tower similar to the Bayon temple (see picture below).

 

Rediscovery

The rediscovery of Preah Khan is credited to French explorer and artist  Louis Delaporte who lead a expedition  there in 1873. At the end of their visit they took many statues which are now at the Guimet museum in Paris : among them, a naga  garuda and an elephant statue from  Preah Damrei (see picture below).

Because of its remote location and lack of security,  the site was badly sacked during the 1980’s and 1990’s and even more recently in 2003. Even so, some  beautiful pieces like doors and lintels are still there. The causeway crossing the moat (mostly dry like in Beng Mealea) has many garuda carvings on both sides.

Exploring the site can be quite difficult because of the dense vegetation there and the absence of clear paths.

 

Recent  archeological missions

The Cambodian Archaeological Lidar Initiative (CALI)  known for his groundbreaking discovery of the first Khmer empire city, Mahendravarpata, in Phnom Kulen and  in 2014 did a survey of  Preah Khan in 2015 and confirmed the previous layout  of the temple. They confirmed that Preah Khan was an important iron smelting center at the height of the Khmer Empire. 90 structures were identified within the four enclosures of the temple.

Another project called The Two Buddhist Towers  lead by a multidisciplinary team of researchers (UCLA, University of Illinois, University College London, EFEO,…) aims to study the transition from Mahāyāna to Theravāda Buddhism at Preah Khan did some excavations in 2015 and 2016. Three Chinese coins dating from the 10th and 11th  century were found confirming the importance of his  site during the Khmer Empire.

LIDAR preah khan kompong svay

LIDAR image of  Preah Khan of Kompong Svay

 

Main entrance of Preah Khan of Kompong Svay

 

preah khan kompong svay photo tour

Buddha niche at Preah Khan Kompong Svay

 

Atmospheric entrance in Preah Kompong Svay

 

Garudas below the main bridge of Preah Khan of Kompong Svay

 

luis delaporte preah khan kompong svay

The same garuda bridge by Louis Delaporte in 1873

 

Remain of a lion statue

 

preah khan kompong svay photography tour

Laterite towers in Preah Khan Kompong Svay

 

 

preah khan kompong svay photography tour

Beautiful door at the main temple of Preah Khan Kompong Svay

 

preah khan kompong svay photography tour

Temple ruin in preah khan kompong svay second enclosure

 

 

preah khan kompong svay photography tour

Temple ruin in preah khan kompong svay second enclosure

 

preah khan kompong svay photography tour

One of the two elephant statues remaining statue at Preah Damrei. Louis Delaporte took one back to France in 1873.

 

 

preah khan kompong svay photography tour

Bayon like temple in Preah Khan Kompong Svay

 

preah khan kompong svay photography tour

Beautiful Naga with Garuda at Preah Damrei

 

Tree growing on one of the temples of Preah Khan of Kompong Svay

 

preah khan kompong svay photography tour

Devata at Preah Damrei

 

preah khan kompong svay photography

Preah Stun , a surprising Bayon look alike temple in the jungle

 

 

 

Preah Khan of Kompong Svay is best visited during the dry season when the unpaved road is in fairly good condition.  It is a 1-day trip  from Siem Reap  that can be combined with a visit to Koh Ker or Beng Mealea. A 2-day trip with a visit to Preah Vihear can also be arranged. If you like to do a private photography tour of this enigmatic and beautiful  temple, please contact me.