Archaeology Cambodia Projects

On March 30, 2020 / Cambodia

Archaeology Cambodia: A Quick Timeline

With over 2000 archeological sites in total, Cambodia is well known worldwide for its beautiful temples of Angkor near Siem Reap.

Angkor Wat temple in particular has captured the imagination of many generations since Henri Mouhot introduced it to the world in 1860 with his book Voyage dans les Royaumes de Siam, de Cambodge, de Laos. Although Angkor was rediscovered earlier in the 16th century, it was never completely abandoned.

It is only after few decades after Cambodia became a French Protectorate in 1863 that archeological conservation began in Angkor. For the explorers who came to Angkor before 1900, it was a dangerous expedition as temples were covered with a dense jungle which grew over the centuries.

One of the most important milestones of the archeological conservation work in Angkor was the inception of the EFEO (The École française d’Extrême-Orient or French School of Asian Studies) in 1900. It is not before 1907 that the restoration work started in Angkor as Siem Reap was controlled by the Kingdom of Siam till this date.

Conservation work was interrupted during the Khmer rouge regime and for many years after. It resumed in 1992 supported by the APSARA and the Cambodian government. Nowadays, many countries are supporting the conservation efforts in the temples of Angkor and beyond such as India, Japan, Korea, Indonesia, China, France, Italy, Germany, Switzerland.

ARCHAEOLOGY PROJECTS IN ANGKOR

The primary goal of this page is to gather the last information about the main archaeological projects in the temples of Angkor and in Cambodia in general. Interestingly since tourism stopped mid March due to the pandemic, many locally privately funded archeological projects have started.

Due to the fact that most temples were built on sand, structures slowly sank and now are buried. It is not uncommon that statues or artifacts are found less than one meter deep into the ground.

ARCHAEOLOGICAL CONSERVATION | DISCOVERIES

Archaeological site: Angkor Thom West Gate

GPS coordinates: 13°26’28.6″N 103°50’42.6″E

Discovery date: May 2nd 2022.

Image source: Apsara Authority

An Apsara carving was found on the lower side of the bridge leading to Angkor Thom west gate. It is not clear at this point if this stone was part of the original structure. It is the first time such carving was found on Angkor Thom gates.

Archaeological site: Baray Pier of Banteay Chhmar temple

GPS coordinates: 14°04’17.0″N 103°06’37.7″E

Discovery date: February 3rd 2020.

A 2-meter tall lion statue weighting more than 2 tons was unearthed during the archeaological project taking place at the pier of the Baray of Banteay Chhmar. He was put back in place at its original position where it will face the sunrise once again.

Image source: Banteay Chhmar CBT Facebook page

TO KNOW MORE ABOUT BANTEAY CHHMAR TEMPLE, CLICK BELOW

Archaeological site: Srah Srang reservoir

GPS coordinates: 13°25’51.3″N 103°54’23.0″E

Discovery date: May 6th and May 8th 2020.

Two days apart, two stone turtles were unearthed from the ground of Kandal Srah Srang. The first one uncovered on May 6th 2020, measured 22 by 37 inches and had a lid which when was opened was found empty. The lid of the second turtle found two days later contained small crystal stones and a small trident

The tortoise Kurma is an avatar of the Hindu god Vishnu and often depicted in the story of the churning of the Ocean of Milk. It is not the first time stone turtles were found in Angkor: two were found at Bayon temple in 2014 with one containing a gold leaf and crystals in its cavity.

First turtle discovered in Srah Srang. photo credit: Apsara Authority

Second turtle discovered in Srah Srang. photo credit: Apsara Authority

Archaeological site: Angkor Wat western lawn

GPS coordinates: 13°24’47.0″N 103°51’43.9″E

Discovery date: April 16th 2020.

During the installation of an irrigation system on the lawn of Angkor Wat temple, many pieces of beheaded Buddha statues were unearthed only 40 cm deep in the ground. They were found together with modern object including plastic bags suggested that they were buried in the 60’s or 70’s.

photo credit: Apsara Authority

Archaeological site: Angkor Wat northern pond

GPS coordinates: 13°24’47.9″N 103°51’51.6″E

Discovery date: March 26th 2020.

During the excavation work on the northern pond of Angkor Wat, an intriguing structure with wooden beams (believed to be dating back from the 12th century) was found below the pond. A small statue of Ganesha was also recovered.

photo credit: Apsara Authority

Archaeological site: Angkor Thom East gate (death gate)

GPS coordinates: 13°26’29.6″N 103°52’23.7″E

Discovery date: April 1st 2020.

A team of the APSARA Authority discovered two face stones buried in the siem reap river nearby the death gate of Angkor Thom about 1.5 km from Bayon temple. One was a faceless demon head (also called asura) and the other a god head (called deva) with its left and bottom parts of the face missing.

The death gate is one the most remote of the five gates of Angkor Thom and also the one with no statues standing so this discovery is significant. Originally, each gate had on each side two rows of demons and god pulling a snake as reference to the story of the Churning of the Sea of Milk.

Each side had 2X 54 statues so 216 heads were attached to this site originally.

photo credit: Apsara Authority

Archaeological site: Tonle Snguot Temple

GPS coordinates: 13°27’35.6″N 103°51’30.4″E

Discovery date: July 31st 2017.

A 2-meter sandstone statue was unearthed 40cm deep in the ground of an angkorian hospital dating back from the 12th century. This archaeological site, called Tonle Snguot Temple is one of the 4 remaining of the network of 102 hospitals built by Jayavarman VII in Angkor Thom. Two others can be visited close to Angkor Wat and Takeo temples.

This statue is believed to be standing on the entrance of the hospital acting as a guardian. Many similar statues like this one can be find in Preah Khan temple, although their head had been stolen in the 70s so it is quite rare to find statues with a complete head. However this statue’s arms and legs were missing.

photo credit: Apsara Authority

ARCHAEOLOGICAL CONSERVATION PROJECTS | ONGOING

Archaeological site: Angkor Wat central sanctuary (Bakan)

GPS coordinates: 13°24’45.0″N 103°52’01.1″E

Focus of the conservation work: southwestern and northwestern side of the central sanctuary

Project duration: Started November 2021

The central sanctuary of Angkor Wat, also called Bakan, is the third and most sacred level of the temple. It is currently accessible by a wooden stairway covering the original stairs from the east side, the other accesses being blocked at this time.

The foundation of the sanctuary is made of laterite stones which can be seen in some damaged part of the structure.

This work is part of a 5-year project aimed at restoring different sections of Bakan. After the restoration of the northwest and southwest corners will be completed, the next task will be consolidate the southeast and northeast corners of the sanctuary.

The central sanctuary of Angkor Wat (Bakan) in March 2022

Archaeological site: Srah Srang reservoir (COMPLETED)

GPS coordinates: 13°25’51.3″N 103°54’23.0″E

Focus of the conservation work: central temple

Project duration: March 2020 – February 2021

Srah Srang (Khmer: ស្រះស្រង់, “Royal Bath”) is an artificial reservoir (also called Baray) surrounded by sandstone and laterite rocks facing the east entrance of Banteay Kdei temple. It is believed to have been dug in mid 1oth century and subsequently modified during the reign of Jayavarman VII in the 12th century.

It measures 700 by 350 meters and it is very shallow most of the year, occasionally becoming dry few weeks a year. In the dry season you could sometime see a small pile of sandstone blocks right in the middle of the reservoir. A Cambodian flag marked its position when the rocks are below the water.

The current project, privately funded and executed by the Apsara Anthority is focusing on the restoration of the central temple. The first phase of the project is to build a wall around the small temple to isolate it from the surrounding water (see drone picture below). Two quite rare sandstone turtoises were found on the site: two replicas were placed at the same location.

At the end of the restoration project in January 2021, one can see from far away a lotus shaped temple, and a broken Naga standing. In February 2021 the temple was opened for the first time to the public and it now accessible (depending on the water level).

Srah Srang drone view. photo credit: Apsara Authority

Temple bird view. photo credit: Apsara Authority

Cambodian worker from the restoration project (April 2020)

Cambodian worker with central temple in the background (April 2020)

Srah Srang’s central temple (June 2016)

Trident found on Srah Srang island on May 4th 2020. photo credit: Apsara Authority

Archaeological site: Angkor Wat temple

GPS coordinates: 13°24’47.9″N 103°51’51.6″E

Focus of the conservation work: Northern reflection pond

Started: May 2019

The northern reflection pond is a world’s famed location where thousands of tourists day after day stand to witness the color of sunrise behind the five lotus-shaped towers of Angkor Wat. The site got damaged years after years by millions of visitor and by erosion. In recent years, the level of water was dropping so much in dry season that water from the main moat of Angkor Wat had to pumped in.

The pond is 76 meters long and 48.5 meters wide, his depth ranging from 2.7 to 2.9 meters and has embankment steps made of sandstone and laterite stones. Announced multiple times in 2018, the project of restoration of the pond was started in May 2019

The purpose of this project, beside the restoration, is to understand how the pond was built originally and to carry some archaeological excavations. In 2021, the project is still ongoing.

Northern pond with Angkor Wat in the background, the wooden beams were found below the green cover (4th April 2020)

Excavation work at Angkor Wat Northern pond (27th February 2020)

Archaeological site: Angkor Thom

GPS coordinates: 13°26’28.6″N 103°50’42.6″E

Focus of the conservation work: West gate of Angkor Thom

Started: March 2020, completed in February 2023

The west gate of Angkor Thom, also known as Ta Kav gate or TaKaov gate is one of the five gates leading to the 12th century fortified complex of Angkor Thom, also the last city of the Khmer Empire before it was gradually deserted from the 15th century.

Symmetrically opposite from Bayon and the East gate, about 3 kilometers away, TaKaov gate has always been out of the beaten path from most tourists visiting the Angkor archaeological park. This gate is actually used everyday by local people either on bicycle or motorbikes as a gateway from nearby villages to Angkor Thom. Its path was once covered by wooden planks, but now only a dirt path remains.

In July 2021, a huge anastylosis project was started on the gate. During excavations, three deva and asura heads were discovered on the western side of the gate. One asura (god head) was found buried under a tree. Some large trees surrounded the gate were cut as well to make room for the restoration work. In 2022, the project continued and the 4 faces removed from the gate and some giant statues being carved to be placed on the western side of the gate. In February 2023, Apsara Authority annonced that the restoration project was completed.

TaKaov gate, April 2020

Ta Kav gate in March 2021

Asura head found buried under a tree. photo credit: Apsara Authority (July 2021)

Ta Kav gate, August 2021

Stone carvers working on new faces at Angkor Thom west gate. February 2022

Stone carvers working on new sandstone block to make a new face. February 2022

New half-face made of sandstone. February 2022

Three-headed elephant after restoration. February 2023

Archaeological site: Banteay Kdei temple

GPS coordinates: 13°25’51.1″N 103°53’54.3″E

Focus of the conservation work: Western gopura

Started: March 2020, still ongoing

Banteay Kdei temple (AD 1185) is a one of the the many temples built under the reign of the king Jayavarman VII following the Bayon style and one of the few temples with face towers in Angkor.

Banteay Kdei is actually quite unique within the Angkor archaeological park as all four of its face towers are still standing. The current restoration work is focusing on the western gopura which has only two of its four faces complete. One face facing west is missing its top half. in 202o, trees have been cleared around the tower making the faces more visible than before.

After a period of inactivity, the project resumed in January 2022 where the gate is being disassembled. It is not clear at this stage if new sandtone blocks will be added to the structure.

bantey kdei temple, angkro archaeological park

Banteay Kdei west gate in March 2020 after trees were cut

Banteay Kdei west gate in March 2020 after trees were cut

Cambodia archaeology, banteay kdei temple

Banteay Kdei west gate facing east in March 2020

Banteay Kdei west gate being disassembled, february 2022

Banteay Kdei giant lips down on the ground, february 2022

Cambodia markets through a camera lens

On July 13, 2019 / Cambodia

improve your photography in cambodia markets

Markets in South-East Asia and in Cambodia in particular are one of my favorite places to take pictures for many reasons which I will detail below. Every city or village in Cambodia have one or many markets: indoors under a metallic rooftop or in a concrete building, outdoors as for example along a road side. Market stalls are often organized by categories (jewellery, clothes, fish,vegetables,meat, desserts, hairdressers, etc…). It is also possible to find specialized markets like the fermented fish (prahok) market of Battambang (also called cheese market by tourists because of its strong smell) and the crab market in Kep.

Worker at the prahok market of Battambang (Phsar Prahok)

Some markets are also known for their architecture: the central market of Phnom Penh (Phsar Thmey), the central market of Battambang (Phsar Nath) to name as few which were built in the 1930’s following an Art Deco style.

Interior of Battambang market (Psa Nat), Art Deco style

Architecture is one thing but what is inside of course is more interesting. One thing Asian local markets are sharing is their energy especially during morning peak hours.

Photographers are always looking for the best light and in an indoor market in early morning when the sun is barely above the horizon, this quest could prove to be quite challenging. The light can be diffused softly through the ceiling or coming directly through some small holes in the metallic structure making impressive beams of light added some atmosphere to the pictures. These lighting conditions make market photography challenging and hence the best place to learn or improve your photography.

The space you will have to take pictures can be limited because indoor markets have generally narrow lanes and some area are congested. Be aware of the traffic from motorbikes as they are allowed to cross the market. Markets are also a good opportunity to catch some short lived moments, capture locals sellers and customers going about their day. Mothers also often bring their kids at the market and always happy to strike a pose.

Barista in local market

Approaching people and get the perfect portrait is a challenge by itself and it gets easier to do that with a photography guide who has established some relationships with local sellers. Cambodian people are very friendly and are open to be photographed but it is always better to ask first. Cambodia is changing rapidly but in a local market you can still find elderly women wearing a traditional piece of cloth called kroma folded around their heads.

Beside people, food photography is not to be missed and food stalls, especially vegetable ones can be particularly colorful. You can even capture abstract patterns there if you looking carefully as these water lily stems below.

If you are interested to capture similar pictures and improve your photography skills, please have a look at our two guided photography tours in Siem Reap here and here. Our multi-day tour in Battambang province will provided you also with many photography opportunities out of the beaten path.

Learn To Shoot The Fuji Way

On December 28, 2018 / Uncategorized

I recently acquired a FujiFilm XT-100 as a second camera. FUJIFILM’s X Series a is a line of cameras fun to use with a good quality of image but also quite different to use than a Canon or Nikon camera.

I can teach you how to can the best of the FujiFilm XT-100 (rental is free for those booking a full-day tour). It is a good opportunity also to try it if you are on a fence and thinking about buying one. Here are below some pictures shot with the 7artisans 25 mm f:2.8 on the XT-100. It is a good opportunity also to try it if you are on a fence and thinking about buying one. If you do not own one, you rent a Fujifilm X-T100 from us (rental is free for those booking a full-day tour).

Here are below some pictures shot with the 7artisans 25 mm f:1.8 (40 mm equivalent) 7artisans 12 mm f:2.8 (18 mm equivalent) on the XT-100.

Fujifilm X-T100 and 7artisans 12 and 25 mm

7artisans 25mm f:1.8 mm

7artisans 12 mm f:2.8

Photowalk in the streets of Battambang

On July 26, 2018 / Battambang, Cambodia

Battambang (also called Bat Dambong which means the disappearing stick) is the second largest city in Cambodia with a rich colonial history. It had more than 500,000 inhabitants in 1962.

Because of its proximity with Thailand, Battambang had a tumultuous history. It was annexed by Thailand in 1795 until it was transferred to French Indochina e in 1907. But it was not always peaceful, it was in the middle of the French-Thai war in 1940-1941, Thailand finally ceded back in 1946.

Because of the quality of its soil, Battambang province is the rice bowl of cambodia. The city center counts about 800 colonial building spread around the central market called Psa Nat 0r Psah Nath, west of the Sangkar river. It was built by the same French architects who did the central market in Phnom Penh and Saigon following the art deco style. some old pagoda with Thai influence. They are many shop houses along streets number 1 and 1.5 although many now are defaced because of shops. There is even a 150 years old Chinese active temple.

A photowalk in Battambang city center will give you plenty of photo opportunities of you like architecture and street photography. The back alleys and the yellow wall will remind of Hoi An or the Cholon district of Saigon.

Architecture

150 years old Chinese temple

New Khmer Architecture building (Sangkum Reastr Niyum)

Interior of Phsar Nath market (Art Deco)Wat Pipetharam (Thai architecture)

Chinese shophouse

Back Alleys

Background and patterns

Post French period (Sangkum Reastr Niyum).

Pagoda damrey sor and wat pipetharam

Wat pipetharam psa nath
Meatl

People

Shophouses

15 stunning pictures of Angkor Wat temple

On July 3, 2018 / Angkor Wat, Cambodia

Like a pilgrimage, thousand of people are exploring everyday Angkor Wat, the largest religious temple in the world and share their pictures on social media. Among them, pictures of sunrise at the reflecting pool are probably the most famous ones. However there are many other opportunities. We wanted to sharing with you in this post our 15 favorite pictures taken in Angkor Wat over the years.

Above is Angkor Wat captured during the spring equinox of March 2016. This timely event occurs twice a year around the 20th of March and September. Getting this shot is of course highly depend on the weather and the chance to have a cloudy sky is particularly high during the month of September. In this picture we blended 4 shots taken few minutes apart with a tripod.

On March 9th 2016, a special set conditions were gathered for an unique Angkor Wat sunrise: a partial eclipse of the sun and the near alignment with the central tower. For few seconds only we could see the sun masked by the moon suspended above the central tower.

The second level of Angkor Wat is where you stand the closest to the five towers and to the central sanctuary called Bakan. From the corners, only three of the five towers are visible. On the first picture, during Vesak day, a Khmer family was walking around the temple which give an interesting human dimension. The second picture, much more dramatic, from another angle, allow to focus on the silhouette of the three towers.

Due to restrictions of the the opening hours, it is only possible to shoot Angkor Wat under the stars between the month of December and February. As it is also the peak season for tourism in Cambodia so many people are on site early and it is quite challenging to avoid the light pollution coming from torch lights and smartphones during long exposure shots. If you look carefully in the picture below, 3 out of 5 towers are lighting up on this shot thanks to random torch lights.

In an there situations, artificial lighting can be helpful to do light painting . This used on the second picture to illuminate and create light effect on one of the naga balustrade of Angkor Wat.

The only opportunity you will have to take some night pictures of Angkor Wat with laser lights are usually during the three days of Khmer New Year which happens every year in April. However this picture was taken in December 14th, 2017 during a light show to celebrate of the 25th anniversary UNESCO world heritage status of Angkor Wat temple.

Sunrise or sunset in Angkor Wat provide some opportunities for silhouettes shots if you are standing on the right location at the right time. In some instance, rays of light can go through the windows and create unique pictures.

Instead of aiming at eye-level for the classic reflection shot at Angkor Wat, pointing down the camera can give a great reflection shot especially at the golden hour.

One of my favorite group of devatas is located on the second level of Angkor Wat (you can count as many as 17 on this picture). It is unfortunately behind a scaffolding since 2016 due to restoration of the tower above it.

This 49 meters long bas-relief depicting the churning of the ocean of milk is one of the most famous in Angkor Wat. You can see the demons (asuras) and the gods (devas) pulling the snake Vasuki fighting over the elixir of immortality. The snake is wrapped around mount Meru used as a stick. Vishnu under the form of his avatar the turtle is helping to stabilize the mountain. Due to its position the bas relief has a strong casting shadow. The solution for this shot was to use light painting, and blend multiple pictures together.

Archaeologists often describe the temples of Angkor as a skeleton as the many wooden structures that did not stand the test of time. On this shot of Angkor taken from the top of the main tower, one can imagine what the temple was like at its heydays with ornaments and wooden doors.

Angkor Wat emerging from the surrounding misty jungle in the morning. This picture was shot from Phnom Bakheng one of the three hills around Siem Reap. To get this shot we recommended to use at least a 300 mm on a full frame sensor.

Banteay Chhmar temple, the Small Citadel

On January 22, 2018 / Banteay Chhmar, Cambodia

Last update: January 2021

Banteay Chhmar temple is the fourth largest temple complex in Cambodia and one of the biggest in the world, situated about 164 km north east of Siem Reap (Banteay Meanchey Province), nearby the Dangrek mountain range in the border with Thailand. Since 2010, thanks to a new road, Banteay Chhmar temple is only one hour drive from Sisophon on the highway 56 and about three-hour drive from Siem Reap. Another way of reaching Banteay Chhmar from Siem Reap is to take the road 68 north of Kralanh and the road 56 west

Banteay Chhmar temple history

Banteay Chhmar, also known as the small citadel, is a massive temple complex oriented west-east with 5 enclosures (2.2 by 1.7 kilometers) and 4 entrances. It is surrounded by a 6 meters wide moat it has also a large Baray on the east with its own temple on the center.

The temple complex was commissioned by King Jayavarman VII during the late 12th century, begging of 13th century and dedicated to his son.

It is sometime described as a twin hub of the Khmer empire because of its size and its layout containing a large main temple with extensive carved walls, many satellite temples and a complex hydraulic system.

Banteay Chhmar follows the Bayon style and has also many face towers. According to George Groslier who surveyed Banteay Chhmar in 1920’s and 1930’s, counted a total of 56 towers.

As this temple was left in the nature for 800 years, it suffered considerable damages and only 10 towers are still standing with only few face towers. Even in the 1920’s, Groslier mantioned that the temple was only accessible two months a year…

Face tower 18

Two of the face towers in the central part of the temple

Banteay Chhmar bas-reliefs

Eastern Gallery

The Eastern gallery is rich in bas-reliefs, similar to the ones in Bayon temple depicting scenes of war and everyday life. It was restored in 2008 during the GHF project.

Bas -relief with war scenes – eastern wall

Bas-relief detail with fishes and turtle – eastern wall

Bas-relief detail of the Eastern wall depicting Jayavarman VII and a young prince (his son?)

Western Gallery (Avalokisteshvara’s wall)

The western gallery is famous for its Avalokiteshvara’s bas-reliefs. Originally, 8 multi-armed Avalokiteshvara were carved on this wall, two of them were under the rubles for many year and back on the wall since 2018 only. The two missing were stolen, and the last two are now exhibited at the Phnom Penh National Museum.

The southern part of the wall was restored as well in 2018, with many bas-reliefs visible including the famous churning of the sea milk story below.

Northern section (22 and 32 arms)

In the northern part of the wall are two beautiful bas-relief of Avalokiteshvara with 22 and 32 arms situated on each side of a door. The 32-armed Avalokisteshava is multi-headed but it is difficult to make out the details even on an digitally enhanced picture

22-arms Avalokiteshvara on the western wall

Sketch of the 22-armed Avalokiteshvara (Jean Boisselier, 1965). 11 heads (?) on 3 levels.

The impressive 32-armed Avalokiteshvara

Details of the multi-headed 32-armed Avalokiteshvara (digitally enhanced)

Details of the 32-arms Avalokiteshvara holding a small Buddha

Central section (10-6-8-8 arms) Before and After

Walking south, there is a 12-metres gap in the wall: in January 1999, an organized group of thieves dismantled 4 images and were intercepted later in Thailand with 177 pieces of sandstone . Unfortunately 5 out of 6 trucks carrying artifacts managed to escape making the heist of 1999 one of the biggest ever in an Angkorian temple. The New York Times published a piece called Raiders of Lost Art Loot Temples in Cambodia in April 1999.

The recovered 10-armed and 6-armed Avalokiteshvara (connected to each other) are now housed at the National Museum in Phnom Penh (in october 2017, the 10-arms was loaned to Cleveland museum in USA).

10-arms Avalokiteshvara (photo credit: Cleveland museum). 53 blocks of sandstone. Dimensions: 275 x 325 x 22 cm

6-arms Avalokiteshvara displayed at the National Museum in Phnom Penh

Walking further south, the gap continues with once was the location of two Lokeshvara. Jean Boitellier took pictures of this section in 1965 so we know that its was two 8-armed Avalokiteshvara.

Sketch of the 8-armed Avalokiteshvara (Jean Boisselier, 1965). It was stolen in 1998 and still missing

Picture of one the 8-armed Avalokiteshvara (Jean Boisselier, 1965). It was stolen in 1998 and still missing

Southern section (4-16 arms) Before and After

Under the rumbles of the southern part of the wall are believed for a long time to lay the two last Avalokiteshvara. A privately funded project was successfully completed in July 2018 to put back the 2 images back. The 16-arms Avalokiteshvara documented by Jean Boisselier in 1965 is back on with few pieces missing only on the bottom right corner.

Surprisingly the other Avalokisteshvara was found under the rubles and put back have only 4 arms which is the lower number of arms in the whole serie of eight. This piece was not documented in 1965.

4-armed Avalokiteshvara back on the wall (taken in March 2019)

Newly discovered piece of Avalokiteshvara on the ground (June 2018)

Picture of the 16-armed Avalokiteshvara (Jean Boisselier, 1965)

Sketch of the 16-armed Avalokiteshvara (Jean Boisselier, 1965)

16-armed Avalokiteshvara head close-up (Jean Boisselier, 1965)

Sandstone block discovered under the rumbles (June 2018) a perfect match with the 16-armed Avalokiteshvara

16-armed Avalokiteshvara back on the wall (taken in March 2019)

The total sequence of the number of arms from from Northern to Southern side of the wall is the following: 22/32/8 (missing)/8 (missing)/6 (museum)/10 (museum)/4/16. The ones with the highest number of arms (16,22 and 32) are the only ones with many heads.

All 8 images have some common features: the lokiteshvara stands on a lotus flower and surrounded by three layers of devotees layers and apsara

Research and Conservation Work

Even though the French explorer Etienne Aymonier first visited the citadel in 1911, it is not before 1924 that the first archaeological surveys were done out by George Groslier and subsequently in 1934 and 1935. Groslier described the temple in a pity state with only few face towers standing. He took many photographs which were later priceless to archaeology research.

Banteay Chhmar was added to UNESCO tentative list in 1992, the same year that Angkor Wat temple was listed UNESCO World Heritage site. Because of its remote location, like Preah Khan of Kampong Svay, Banteay Chhmar was unfortunately the target of extensive lootings in the 1990s.

In 2008, the Global Heritage Fund (GHF) setup a multi-year project with stakeholders such as The Ministry of Culture & Fine Arts, the government of Cambodia and people living in the vicinity of the temple. Led by Dr John Sanday, this project ended in 2015, was a success in restoring the temple, training Cambodians but also providing the base for a sustainable tourism by setting up a community based tourism called CBT. Dr Olivier Cunin, an expert on Banteay Chhmar, built an impressive 3D model. He concluded that the temple was built in different stages, and the same time than some structures of Bayon and Preah Khan temples. A video of the 3D model made by Dr Cunin can be watched here (starts at 5’15”).

A private funded restoration work financed by H.E. Mao Malay Ken Kimyan started in 2018 on the Avalokisteshvarawall and unnearthed two images on a collapsed section of the western wall (see above). Another project started in september 2018 on the eastern terrace, a lintel with Avalokisteshvara was uncovered at the beginning of 2019 as well as two lions. (see below).

Another project completed 2018 was to put back up the wall on the southern part of the west gallery which has also many bas-reliefs with missing parts.

Among them is a bas-relief describing the churning of the sea of milk but unfortunately the turtle carrying Vishu was never found

Photo Gallery | Banteay Chhmar

Eastern Terrace

Lion statue uncovered in 2019 at the eastern terrace

Lintel with Avalokiteshvara uncovered in 2019 on the eastern terrace

Satellite temples

Original wood ceiling on one of the satellite temple

New visitor platform set up at the end of 2018 to get easier access to the center of the main temple

Mebon temple

3D reconstruction of Banteay Chhmar by Dr Olivier Cunin

Banteay Chhmar LIDAR map (Dr Damian Evans, 2016)

Why it is worth visiting Banteay Chhmar?

With the growing popularity of Angkor, especially the top three temples (Angkor Wat, Ta Prohm, Bayon), it is increasingly difficult to appreciate their beauty and take pictures. In Banteay Chhmar, you can walk among the ruins alone and still have this feeling of mystery and adventure. You can forget also the many ticket checkpoints of Angkor, just sign a book at the entrance and you are all set; difficult to believe but no tickets will be delivered to you and if you are coming back the same day you just have to point your name on the book. The entrance fee is only USD 5 which is the same price than Beng Mealea temple.

If you feel more adventurous you can go outside the main temple and visit the 9 satellite temples built during the same period: of particular interest are Ta Prohm, Prasat Samnang and Ta Nem. If you look carefully you might even spot two original wooden ceiling in one of them. If you have time, it is worth strolling in the village and have a look at the farmers working on the culture of manioc.

Local farmers processing manioc before exporting to nearby Thailand

Due to its remote location, the site escaped the iconoclastic reaction which took place in Angkor when almost all of the Buddha images in the Jayavarman VII’s temples is Angkor were destroyed or altered (Ta Prohm, Preah Khan, Bayon,…).

Buddha image

In 2017, the archaeological site received its highest number of tourists with 2200 visitors, a sharp 300% increase from 2008. To put things into perspective, Angkor Wat temple receives about 10 000 visitors on a busy day. We therefore strongly suggest to go to Banteay Chhmar after Angkor Wat and not the other way around…

Community-based tourism at Banteay Chhmar

To add to your experience, we recommend to sleep at one of the homestays of the CBT to immerse yourself and have the chance to enter the temple early to take advantage of the golden hour. Some of them are only few hundred meters away from the temple. Booking is recommended as CBT can only accommodate about 40 persons.

Note: since the start of the pandemic in March 2020, some changes have been made at the CBT:

The main CBT office have been relocated from the east to the west side of the main temple
Homestays are closed. As an alternative, instead it is possible to spend time in a tented camp at Banteay Chhmar temple along with catering services.

Banteay Chhmar | Related Videos

BEYOND ANGKOR: CAMBODIA SCULPTURE FROM BANTEAY CHHMAR (2017 Cleveland Museum of Art. English, 6 min)

watch online: Complete (6 min)

The Heritage Curse (2012 Al Jazeera, 101 East. English, 25 min)

watch online: Section about Banteay Chhmar (8’26” to 12’59”)

THE SMALL CITADEL: RECONSTRUCTING THE RUINED BUDDHIST COMPLEX OF BANTEAY CHHMAR (2010 Freer and Sackler Galleries Smithsonian Institution. English, 66 min)

watch online: Complete (66 min)

FEATURED TOUR

Preah Khan temple

On September 28, 2017 / Cambodia, Preah Khan

Preah Khan, temple of the sacred sword

Preah Khan of Angkor, not to be mistaken with Preah Khan of Kompong Svay, is one of the most beautiful and underrated temple within the Angkor archaeological park. Although Angkor Wat is the most impressive in term of architecture and symmetry it lacks some atmosphere.

When you visit Preah Khan, you will have the feeling of being one of the first explorers wandering within the narrow corridors, courtyards and concealed chambers. The walls of this ancient site boast an extraordinary palette, adorned with various shades of green, black, and red, courtesy of the diverse lichen and moss species. Colors are changing also with the seasons making this temple an ever changing playground for photographers. It is one the rare temple in Angkor worth exploring with your camera under the rain

This temple, commissioned in 1191, is a Hindu-Buddhist temple complex built during the reign of Jayavarman VII, one of the most charismatic Khmer king who built also the famous temples of Ta Prohm and Bayon. It is also known as the temple of the sacred sword, and dedicated to the father of Jayavarman VII (divinity Jayavarmesvara). The temple was a monastic city dedicated to teaching and of course a place of devotion. A stele discovered in 1939 by Maurice Glaize gave away many information for example 100,000 people were living on site, including 1000 teachers. We also learned that the temple was built on the battle site where Jayavarman VII defeated the Cham army. 60 tons of gold inlays were believed to be in the temple making an unique treasure in the 12th century.

Preah Khan | Temple layout

The temple was built on a flat ground oriented East to West, with a naga bridge on both side (most visitors enter via the west entrance). There are also two other entrances on the north and south of the temple, the later one not been used. The temple complex spread on 56 hectares with 4 concentric enclosures. It has 72 garudas (mythical bird-man),holding two nagas, all spread around the outer wall. The 40 meters wide moat is full of water all year around although some sections are dry during the months of April and May.

Preah Khan temple map (Maurice Glaize)

Preah Khan temple central sanctuary under heavy rain

Lotus flowers and candles at the central sanctuary’s stupa

Preah Khan temple | Conservation work

Past

The first conservation work was carried out by Henri Marchal from the EFEO between 1927 and 1932. After the war, conservation works was resumed by the WMF (Word Monument Fund) with a series in missions in 1991,1992, 1993 and 1994. In the 90’s, archeologists described the temple as a partial ruin deep in the jungle. Beside the consolidation and the restoration of many structures, an important goal of all these missions was to train Khmer people in conservation.

Like many temples of Angkor, Preah Khan suffered from looting during the Khmer rouge regime. By looking at archive pictures and footage you can see that a lot of statues are missing now. For example the two guardians at the west gopura still had their head in 1968 and a lion was still standing before the platform.The naga bridge on the east side just have half of giant face left out of the original 108…. Not so long ago, in 1993 and 1996, thieves tried to steal stone heads of Asura but fortunately got stopped.

Current

In 1996, WMF launched the Adopt a Garuda program. With a donation of USD 25,000 a garuda can be completely restored. The program is quite successful as in 2009, 27 of the 72 have been restored so far. Preah Khan is actually part of a larger WMF program which includes also Angkor Wat and Phnom Bakheng.

The project of dismantlement and reconstruction of of a small building close to the central sanctuary which a had a dead tree on top of it is now over. Although it is small building several hundreds of number sandstone blocks are laying on the ground ready to be put together like a puzzle which gives an idea of the daunting task of the workers who worked in the temple in the 90’s.

The visitor center was completely dismantled in 2017 and a new one is under construction at the same location. The previous building hosted some interesting information panels about the restoration work of the 90’s as well as some large pictures.

A major conservation work is on pause on the east entrance by the Archaeological Survey of India for many years now aims at restoring two of the three towers.

Visit highlights

Preah Khan has many locations to explore, you should plan a 1 h 1/2 to 2 h to cross the temple from West to East especially if you are taking pictures. Among the highlights are the stupa at the central sanctuary, a linga with its yoni, the hall of dancers, the biggest strangler fig in Angkor beside the east gopura, the 2-story pavilion, the baray on the east leading to Neak Pean and Ta Som. If you want to see the secret chambers it is recommended to hire a guide as they are difficult to find.

Narrow passage between two chapels

Elderly nun ready to give blessing, she is 81 years old and a long time resident of the temple

Group of monks in with the double stories pavilion in the background

The two stories pavilion has an unique architecture in Angkor

Devata in a narrow corridor

Demon pulling the naga snake snake on the west causeway

strangler fig growing on a wall

REFLECTIONS

Flooded corridor during the monsoon season

Gopura with giant stone guardians

Apsara dancers ornements in the hall of dancers

Devata (Queen Indradevi)

Crumbling headless statue of an Asura

Hidden Devata (Queen Jayarajadevi)

Monk exiting a secret chamber

Buddha carving covered in moss

Hidden guardian with flowers offering

Preah Khan Jayatataka

One of the standing lion at the eastern gopura

Nature and sandstone intertwined

Beams of light of the forest

Hidden Devata

The biggest tree (Tetrameles nudiflora R.Br. Datiscaceae) in Preah Khan, facing west

The biggest tree of the temple growing on the eastern gopura

Unfortunately the beautiful tree above (Tetrameles nudiflora R.Br. Datiscaceae) has been cut in 2020 and now just a shadow if itself:(

Angkor Complete

Angkor Sunrise

8 Good Reasons to do a Photography Tour in South-East Asia

On September 18, 2017 / blog

Photography tours are becoming increasingly popular and are now available globally, with options to explore destinations ranging from Iceland to Antarctica, and from New York to Paris. These tours offer a combination of exploration and learning opportunities, making them suitable for both experienced photographers and beginners. They provide opportunities to discover new places and cultures, explore lesser-known locations, take amazing pictures and improve your photography skills.

South-East Asia offers a plethora of destinations for photography tours, including Siem Reap, gateway of the temples of Angkor (Cambodia), Hoi An, Ho Chi Minh and Hanoi (Vietnam), Yangon (Myanmar), Bali (Indonesia), Bangkok (Thailand).

In this post, we will examine eight compelling reasons for considering a photography tour during your next holiday in South-East Asia.

1.Improve your photography skills

A photography tour in South-East Asia is an ideal opportunity for even the most experienced photographers, including those specializing in sports, wildlife, or wedding photography, to improve their skills. The diverse range of locations and subjects available in South-East Asia offers endless photographic opportunities, many of which may be outside of your comfort zone. From capturing workers harvesting rice on paddy fields, ancient temples, to taking portraits in busy food markets, a photography tour in South-East Asia will challenge and inspire photographers of all levels.

Rice harvest at sunset in Hoi An Vietnam

Local market scene in the morning in Siem Reap Cambodia

2. Enjoy people photography

When living in South-East Asia we often take for granted that taking pictures of people is easy to do. Due to privacy concerns, it is almost impossible in the West except during large public events. In Asia, people often get into the game and even sometimes ask you to take pictures of them:)

Cute elderly couple in Hoi An Vietnam

Worker taking a break in a knife workshop in Siem Reap Cambodia

Two Cambodian women selling betel leaves in a local market in Siem Reap Cambodia

3- Photography Tours Asia: Discover a Country from a New Perspective

During a photo tour , you will be guided by a photographer who is always looking for new places and has been living in the area for many months or many years. This considerable asset will allow you to have access to some locations out of the beaten path which often are not available during a “normal” tour. Often, the photographer has develop some relations with locals, speak some of the language and this will be valuable in people photography. You might have access also to remote locations with tribes or be the witness some local Buddhist ceremonies.

siem reap photography tour kids running countryside

Kids plating in paddy fieds in Siem Reap Cambodia

Buddhist ceremony in a local monastery

Face-tattooed women in a remote village of Myanmar

4- Photography Tours Asia: Pushing the Boundaries of Your Photography Equipment

Sometime, at the end of a tour, it happens that some guests decide to upgrade their camera system or buy new lenses. Whether you have a entry level camera, you will test the limit of your equipment: shooting a low lights with moving subjects in some festivals or in markets with dimmed lights. You might no get also the nice bokeh you were expecting in your portraits. Common purchases are wide angle lenses to do architecture shots or a portrait lens.

Khmer family going around the main tower of Angkor Wat temple

Angkor Wat under a starry sky before sunrise

5- Meet like-minded people

If you take part in a photography tour with a small group of people especially for few days, it is likely that you will a blast together, keep in touch and maybe even do another trip together in the future. For many people, a photo tour remains the highlight of their trip in Asia.

6- For beginners, a quick way to improve your photography

Many people start learning photography by taking theoretical courses in a classroom with little or no practice. During a photography tour, a lot of the time is spent on hands-on practice and because of on many different situations encountered during the day (sunrise/sunset, low light, portraits,architecture shots), you are most likely to make long lasting improvement on your photography. You will look after very differently at the triangle of exposure:)

Silk farm in Siem Reap Cambodia

Bamboo forest with shining sun in Siem Reap Cambodia

7- Get to the best locations with the best light

Photography is all about light and when exploring a new place, knowing the best photographic spots with the best light is very difficult even after some prior extensive research online. Depending on the destination (cities, archeological parks, national parks), it can take months to know the best shooting locations and the best angles. Even if seasons are not marked so much in South-East Asia, there is an impact photography. In Angkor Wat temple for example, the path of the sun is drastically different between June and December making shots very different depending on the season.

During the monsoon, your photography leader will guide you around the locations to get those nice reflection shots.

Panoramic view of Bayon temple in Angkor Thom Cambodia with water reflection. Bayon temple was built late 12th century by Jayavarman VII.

Beautiful devatas carvings in the temple of Angkor Wat Siem Reap Cambodia at sunrise

8- Go back home with great pictures

Because you have being in the right locations with the best light, and had guidance during your shots, you will be sure to go back home with the best pictures of your holidays. Why not make a coffee table book of your best pictures to show your friends and plan together your next photographic adventures?

10 Fun Facts to Know About Angkor Wat Temple

On July 24, 2017 / Angkor Wat, Cambodia

Angkor Wat temple, architectural masterpiece of the Khmer Empire, situated near Siem Reap in North-western Cambodia is one of the most visited temple in the world (more than 2 million visitors in 2016). Here are 10 fun facts below about Angkor Wat temple.

1. The central tower of Angkor Wat is aligned with sunrise twice a year in March and September during the winter and spring equinox.

angkor wat sunrise spring equinox photography tours

Angkor Wat sunrise Spring equinox (March 2016)

2. The artificial moat surrounding the temple provides stability to the structure by keeping constant the humidity of the sandy ground below.

3. Contrary to the other Angkorian temples, Angkor Wat is facing West.

4. Angkor Wat counts about 1700 delicate carvings of topless celestial dancers called Devatas.

5. The first pictures of Angkor Wat were taken in 1866 by John Thomson.

6. Angkor Wat was during the 12th century the largest city on Earth with an estimated population of nearly 1,000,000.

7. Angkor Wat has four entrances but only the west and the east are accessible.

8. Angkor Wat was built as heaven on earth with its fives towers representing Mont Meru and its moat the ocean.

9. Since 2013, you can visit the entire temple complex of Angkor Wat from your smartphone using Google Street View.

10. Angkor Wat central sanctuary is made of an iron core (coming from laterite, a porous stone containing iron oxide).

Dragon Monks of Cambodia

On July 15, 2017 / buddhism, Cambodia, monks

While leading a photography tour with one of my guest in the Cambodian countryside, we unexpectedly stumbled upon a unusual Buddhist ceremony at a local pagoda: many families were there busy preparing offering and several young Cambodian boys with shaved heads were wearing colorful dresses and make-up. One of them was actually crying.

We learned later that this 2-day ceremony was inspired by the Dragon Monk Legend: a long time ago, a dragon (Neak in Khmer language) who took the form of a man was ordained monk by Buddha. While taking a nap, the monk changed back to dragon and the trick was discovered. The legend lived until this day as the ceremony of the dragon is taking place when a Cambodian man wants to become a monk either for few years or longer.

We were lucky to be the only outsiders taken pictures of this ceremony of the 9 monks to be ordained. Future monks had their head and eyebrows shaved and were dressed up with the with a colorful sampot (an ancient long traditional saron) and a lace top along with some jewellery. They also applied lipstick to make themselves more beautiful, something which can be seen in the temples of Angkor done by locals on some Buddha and Devata statues.

At one point of the ceremony, beautiful horses were brought in and monks rode them to take part of a procession going back to the city few miles away. Some women carried colorful boxes containing the robe of the monks that they will be wearing the next day.

When back from the city, a large crowd did a circumambulation (3 times) before entering the pagoda where the monks were been ordained by higher monks.

If you are visiting Siem Reap and want to document this special Buddhist ceremony please get in touch with us.