Battambang (also called Bat Dambong which means the disappearing stick) is the second largest city in Cambodia with a rich colonial history. It had more than 500,000 inhabitants in 1962.
Because of its proximity with Thailand, Battambang had a tumultuous history. It was annexed by Thailand in 1795 until it was transferred to French Indochina e in 1907. But it was not always peaceful, it was in the middle of the French-Thai war in 1940-1941, Thailand finally ceded back in 1946.
Because of the quality of its soil, Battambang province is the rice bowl of cambodia. The city center counts about 800 colonial building spread around the central market called Psa Nat 0r Psah Nath, west of the Sangkar river. It was built by the same French architects who did the central market in Phnom Penh and Saigon following the art deco style. some old pagoda with Thai influence. They are many shop houses along streets number 1 and 1.5 although many now are defaced because of shops. There is even a 150 years old Chinese active temple.
A photowalk in Battambang city center will give you plenty of photo opportunities of you like architecture and street photography. The back alleys and the yellow wall will remind of Hoi An or the Cholon district of Saigon.
Architecture
150 years old Chinese temple
New Khmer Architecture building (Sangkum Reastr Niyum)
The Philippine archipelago, famous worldwide for its many beautiful beaches if it was not for Vigan, would be virtually unknown for its colonial architecture. Many beautifully century years old houses are scattered today in many regions of the Phillipines, often restoration effort undertook with private funding.
This blog post will give you a taste of some 100 + years homes which can be found in Cebu (negros oriental) and in Silay few kilometers away from Bacolod (Negros Oriental).
If you are in Cebu two ancestral houses can be found within walking distance of each other in the Parian district and worth the visit.
Yap Sadiengo ancestral house, Cebu
Location: Mabini Street, Cebu city. GPS coordinates (10.299410, 123,903958). Open daily from 9:00 am to 6:00 pm. Entrance fee: 50 PHP per person.
Yap Sadiengo ancestral house, allegedly built in the 17th century (around 1680), escaped the bombings of WWII and the earthquake in 2013. It is said that it is possibly the oldest Chinese house outside China. The house is in a very good condition with thick coral stone walls and its roof made of wood and terracota. It is under the care of the Sadiengo family and they make point to sleep there every week. The house is on two-stories and filled with ancient and modern artwork, statues and furnitures
Jesuit House, Cebu
Few footsteps from Yap Sandiego house, behind a busy metal workshop you can find The Jesuit house. A relief plaque Ano 1730 above the main entrance of the house
The city of Silay, few kilometers west of Bacolod, became a prosperous town at the turn of the 20th century thanks to its sugar cane plantations and mills. The Don and Donas (also called hacenderos) became quite wealthy and constructed beautiful houses at the beginning of the 20 th century.
About 30 of them are still standing in the heritage portion and three of them have been changed into museums.
Balay Negrense, Silay
Location: Cinco de Noviembre street, Silay.
10.7996695,122.9745508.
Opening hours: 9:00 am to 6:00 pm.
Entrance fees: 60 PHP per person.
Balay Negrense, built in 1897 by the sugar baron Victor Gaston. His father Yves Leopold Germain Gaston from France is credited to have built the first sugar mill in 1846 that started sugar cane cultivation in a commercial scale in the region.
Interior of one of the six bedrooms of Balay Negrense mansion
Kitchen of Balay Negrense mansion with one of the first Electrolux refrigerator
Access to the second floor of Balay Negrense
Interior of one of the six bedrooms of Balay Negrense mansion
Bernardino Jalandoni Museum, Silay
Rizal street, Silay.
10.8019506, 122.97734
From 9:00 am to 6:00 pm.
60 PHP per person.
Bernardino Jalandoni Museum also known as the pink house
Another well preserved two-stories ancestral mansion worth visiting in Silay which according to the resident guide is 90% in its original state. The house shares similar features with Balay Negrense: high ceilings and many openings above the bedrooms on the second floor
Many decorations were imported from Germany including a 100 years old Steinway piano.
In the kitchen, no fridge but an ice box where ice blocks shipped from USA which can tell abou the opulent live in these mansions back then.
Preah Khan of Angkor, not to be mistaken with Preah Khan of Kompong Svay, is one of the most beautiful and underrated temple within the Angkor archaeological park. Although Angkor Wat is the most impressive in term of architecture and symmetry it lacks some atmosphere.
When you visit Preah Khan, you will have the feeling of being one of the first explorers wandering within the narrow corridors, courtyards and concealed chambers. The walls of this ancient site boast an extraordinary palette, adorned with various shades of green, black, and red, courtesy of the diverse lichen and moss species. Colors are changing also with the seasons making this temple an ever changing playground for photographers. It is one the rare temple in Angkor worth exploring with your camera under the rain
This temple, commissioned in 1191, is a Hindu-Buddhist temple complex built during the reign of Jayavarman VII, one of the most charismatic Khmer king who built also the famous temples of Ta Prohm and Bayon. It is also known as the temple of the sacred sword, and dedicated to the father of Jayavarman VII (divinity Jayavarmesvara). The temple was a monastic city dedicated to teaching and of course a place of devotion. A stele discovered in 1939 by Maurice Glaize gave away many information for example 100,000 people were living on site, including 1000 teachers. We also learned that the temple was built on the battle site where Jayavarman VII defeated the Cham army. 60 tons of gold inlays were believed to be in the temple making an unique treasure in the 12th century.
Preah Khan | Temple layout
The temple was built on a flat ground oriented East to West, with a naga bridge on both side (most visitors enter via the west entrance). There are also two other entrances on the north and south of the temple, the later one not been used. The temple complex spread on 56 hectares with 4 concentric enclosures. It has 72 garudas (mythical bird-man),holding two nagas, all spread around the outer wall. The 40 meters wide moat is full of water all year around although some sections are dry during the months of April and May.
Preah Khan temple map (Maurice Glaize)
Preah Khan temple central sanctuary under heavy rain
Lotus flowers and candles at the central sanctuary’s stupa
Preah Khan temple | Conservation work
Past
The first conservation work was carried out by Henri Marchal from the EFEO between 1927 and 1932. After the war, conservation works was resumed by the WMF (Word Monument Fund) with a series in missions in 1991,1992, 1993 and 1994. In the 90’s, archeologists described the temple as a partial ruin deep in the jungle. Beside the consolidation and the restoration of many structures, an important goal of all these missions was to train Khmer people in conservation.
Like many temples of Angkor, Preah Khan suffered from looting during the Khmer rouge regime. By looking at archive pictures and footage you can see that a lot of statues are missing now. For example the two guardians at the west gopura still had their head in 1968 and a lion was still standing before the platform.The naga bridge on the east side just have half of giant face left out of the original 108…. Not so long ago, in 1993 and 1996, thieves tried to steal stone heads of Asura but fortunately got stopped.
Current
In 1996, WMF launched the Adopt a Garuda program. With a donation of USD 25,000 a garuda can be completely restored. The program is quite successful as in 2009, 27 of the 72 have been restored so far. Preah Khan is actually part of a larger WMF program which includes also Angkor Wat and Phnom Bakheng.
The project of dismantlement and reconstruction of of a small building close to the central sanctuary which a had a dead tree on top of it is now over. Although it is small building several hundreds of number sandstone blocks are laying on the ground ready to be put together like a puzzle which gives an idea of the daunting task of the workers who worked in the temple in the 90’s.
The visitor center was completely dismantled in 2017 and a new one is under construction at the same location. The previous building hosted some interesting information panels about the restoration work of the 90’s as well as some large pictures.
A major conservation work is on pause on the east entrance by the Archaeological Survey of India for many years now aims at restoring two of the three towers.
Visit highlights
Preah Khan has many locations to explore, you should plan a 1 h 1/2 to 2 h to cross the temple from West to East especially if you are taking pictures. Among the highlights are the stupa at the central sanctuary, a linga with its yoni, the hall of dancers, the biggest strangler fig in Angkor beside the east gopura, the 2-story pavilion, the baray on the east leading to Neak Pean and Ta Som. If you want to see the secret chambers it is recommended to hire a guide as they are difficult to find.
Narrow passage between two chapels
Elderly nun ready to give blessing, she is 81 years old and a long time resident of the temple
Group of monks in with the double stories pavilion in the background
The two stories pavilion has an unique architecture in Angkor
Devata in a narrow corridor
Demon pulling the naga snake snake on the west causeway
strangler fig growing on a wall
REFLECTIONS
Flooded corridor during the monsoon season
Gopura with giant stone guardians
Apsara dancers ornements in the hall of dancers
Devata (Queen Indradevi)
Crumbling headless statue of an Asura
Hidden Devata (Queen Jayarajadevi)
Hidden Devata (Queen Jayarajadevi)
Monk exiting a secret chamber
Buddha carving covered in moss
Hidden guardian with flowers offering
Preah Khan Jayatataka
One of the standing lion at the eastern gopura
Nature and sandstone intertwined
Beams of light of the forest
Hidden Devata
The biggest tree (Tetrameles nudiflora R.Br. Datiscaceae) in Preah Khan, facing west
The biggest tree of the temple growing on the eastern gopura
Unfortunately the beautiful tree above (Tetrameles nudiflora R.Br. Datiscaceae) has been cut in 2020 and now just a shadow if itself:(
Related videos
A Walk through the Preah Khan Temple Complex, Cambodia (2012 World Monument Fund English, 5 min)
The iconic Petronas towers, raising at 452 meters (88 stories) above the ground, are on the bucket list of many travellers and architecture lovers. They are to this day, (probably not for too long), the tallest twin towers in the world. Inaugurated on August 1999, they put Kuala Lumpur and Malaysia on the world map in the wake of the Asian financial crisis of 1998. It was the first skyscraper ever built by Malaysia and it took 6 years.
The Petronas Twin Towers are a fine example of Islamic architecture, both tall and elegant connected by a skybridge. They are located in the so called KLCC area (Kuala Lumpur City Center) on top of Suria luxury mall.
For photographers the Petronas are a source of inspiration during the day or at night when they are light up. As they stand much taller than the other buildings they are visible in many locations even few miles away from Kuala Lumpur. Each day, they reflect the light differently, and they certainly raised up to many photography challenges from the distance or up close.
Petronas Towers at the golden hour at sunset from Kampung Baru
The twin towers reflecting in a skyscraper across the road
A century old Malay traditional house in Kampung Baru with Petronas towers in the background
Kuala Lumpur skyline at sunset from Bukit Ampang view
Kuala Lumpur skyline with the Petronas Towers and KL tower
Kuala Lumpur cityscape with the Petronas Towers on the background
Beautiful Petronas twin towers soaring in the sky just after sunset
Hoi An is a charming and picturesque little city located near the coastline in Central Vietnam. Once a major trading port between the 16th and 18th centuries, it managed to retain to this day some of his architectural heritage. The old city spreads on 30 hectares and is listed on the UNESCO Word Heritage since 1999.
Although many of the 1000 old houses in Hoi An are now converted to tailor, souvenir, coffee shops and restaurants due the booming of both international and national tourism (more than 2 million tourist in 2016), an handful of preserved houses are open to the public. To visit them, you need to buy a 120 000 VND ticket (about USD 5), valid for only 5 world heritage sites. This post lists all heritage houses you can visit with one pass.
I would recommend to start your visit around 8 am to avoid group tours that can spoil your experience and make it difficult to take pictures. The advantage also is to be able to use a tripod as the interior of some houses is really dark. Except for the ancient house, each site is only few minutes apart by walk.
Tan Ky house (101 Nguyen Thai Hoc St)
Named after its builder Tan Ky, this house is the most popular heritage house in Hoi An, also the first one to be listed on the national heritage of Vietnam in 1985. Built in the late 18th century, its architecture is a combination of Japanese, Chinese and Vietnamese styles. Two entrances are available, one facing the river but unfortunately the first floor is not open to the general public. It is not the best house to take interior pictures as often crowded with groups.
A short five minutes introduction is given but some members of the founding family before you can wander around. On one wall, water levels due to floods are recorded, the last one being in December 2016 which lasted for 4 days.
Interior of Tan Ky old house in Hoi An
Old bed displayed in Tan Ky old house
Phung Hung House (4 Nguyen Thi min Khai St)
Not far from the famous Japanese covered bridge, Phung Hung is a two-stories private house built in 1780 with a combination of Japanese (four-sided roof), Chinese and Vietnamese styles. A balcony with a nice vintage on the street below and on the room below is accessible. A small tour with few explanations is given to you when you enter the premises. It is one the best house to take interior pictures because it is quite large and bright. A shop selling embroideries is located on the second floor.
Interior of Phung Hung old house in Hoi An
Interior of Phung Hung old house in Hoi An
Interior of Phung Hung old house in Hoi An
Quan Thang house (77 Tran Phu St)
Built by a Chinese merchant in the late 17th century, Quan Thang is a one-story shop-house with some interesting architectural details especially the teak walls. No explanations about the house was given by family during the visit. The back of the house is private so photographic opportunities are quite limited.
Interior of Quan Thang old house
Portrait of Ho Chi Minh in Quan Thang house
Portrait of an ancestor at Quan Thang house altar
Duc An old house (129 Tran Phu St)
Duc An is an heritage house built in 1850 with some timber carvings. The house was a bookstore at the end of the 19th century and Chinese medicine dispensary during the 20th century. Unfortunately a souvenir shop is now located on the back of the house thus restricting photography. There was no guide during the visit.
Interior of Duc An old house
Interior of Duc An heritage house in Hoi An
Old medicine dispensary in Duc An old house
Tran Family Chapel (21 Le Loi St)
Tran chapel is a beautiful house built in 1804 by Tran Tu Nhac with purpose to worship his ancestors. Architecture reflects Japanese (five columns), Chinese (turtle roof) and Vietnamese (bow and arrow) styles. The house has three entrances, a beautiful waiting room leading to the atmospheric ancestors’altar with stone tablets. A shop is located at the back with some interesting Yin Yang coins and few Piastres from the Indochina period. The guided visit was one of the best of all the houses.
Waiting room in the Tran Chapel family
Waiting room in the Tran Chapel family
Tran Tu Nhac, the founder of the Tran Chapel
Ancestors of the Tran family
Beautiful floor tiles in Tran Chapel family
Detail of a drape in Tran Chapel Hoi An
Yin Yang coins in Tran Chapel Hoi An
Ancient House (104 Thai Phien St)
One of my favorite heritage house situated in the northern part of the old town. Built 250 years ago on one floor with 4 rooms it has an unique Vietnamese architecture. A cluster of beautiful red lanterns are hanging in the entrance room and carved pillars are well preserved. Hosts are quite friendly and invite you for tea and biscuits to reply to questions you might have. Entrance is free so if if you do not want to buy anything from the shop, a donation box is available. Ancient House receives only few visitors daily so you are likely to be alone during your visit.
Ancient house interior Hoi An
Red lanterns in ancient house Hoi An
Beautiful carved pillar in Ancient House
Red lanterns in Hoi An Ancient House
Glass window detail in ancient house Hoi An
Diep Dong Nguyen house (82 Nguyen Thai Hoc St)
This old house built late 19th century has been converted to a museum displaying ceramics and furniture. Of particular interest is the wooden facade of the house with no windows. You do not need the old town ticket to visit the premises.
The beautiful wooden facade of Diep Dong Nguyen house
Yangon is the city with the highest density of colonial buildings in South East Asia. Known as Rangoon, it was the capital of Burma between 1824 and 1948 and one of the province of the British India Empire. It witnessed a rich architectural development during this period following different styles: Art Deco, Edwardian, Victorian and British-Burmese.
Many buildings were built for Scottish companies like Burmah oil, Brothers & Co, A. Scott&Co, Messrs Bulloch Brothers & Co to name a few which operated successful businesses in oil, import/export of commodities, shipbuildings, etc…
Natural disasters (the earthquake of 1930, cyclone Nargis in 2008) and the bombings of Word War II inflicted severe damages to the city and many buildings were lost forever.
The isolation of the country for 50 years after the military coup of 1962 did not help. With all these events, it is actually surprising that so many colonial buildings are still standing today. In 2005, many government offices were moved to the new capital Naypyidaw, about 350 km north of Yangon and definitely closed.
Nowadays, many large colonial buildings are occupying downtown, along Merchand and Strand roads, and also on Pansodan street. Some of them have been renovated like Aya bank headquarters, City Hall or the Strand Hotel, afamous five stars built in 1901.
This photo essay is focusing on the beautiful and neglected colonial buildings which will either disappear or being restored in the coming years.
Because of safety concerns some places such as the Pegu Club are not open to the general public anymore. Some others, like the secretariat building, are under renovation.
Entering a neglected colonial building in Yangon is like taking a time machine and one cannot help wondering how it was back then when these places were home of powerful trading houses, banks or offices.
Nowadays, small business offices are sometime occupying premises and bring some life to these places. Some private buildings have interiors in fairly good condition and can be accessed after of course seeking the authorization from the owner.
The state of disrepair of some buildings is such that trees start growing on the walls and entire structures have collapsed.
You can spend hours wandering in the streets of Yangon looking for unlocked buildings. It is not uncommon while exploring these locations that a friendly local gives you a bit of history about the places, they understand their potential to attract tourists interested in colonial architecture.
Founded in 2012, the Yangon Heritage Trust (YHT), has for goal to identify and preserve colonial architecture in Yangon. YHT installed blue plaques on buildings with historical significance to raise awareness among the public, the first one was installed in 2014 at the City Hall.
In 2017, Yangon is at a crossroad and time will tell if authorities in charge manage to save this unique architectural heritage in South-East Asia.
Defunct elevator in dilapidated colonial building
Defunct elevator in fairly good condition
Neglected colonial building from 1905 and its gatekeeper.
Apartments building in Yangon downtown
Dilapidated colonial building in downtown Yangon
Beautiful wooden staircase in a private building
Neglected staiway in a colonial building
Tenants walking down a beautiful rusty stairway
Dark staircase in an abandoned colonial building
Crumbling staircase in an old building
Beautiful wooden stairway in private building
Some families are still living in their colonial homes
Amazingly, Pickerings company still exist today and is still manufacturing elevators
New Khmer Architecture building (Sangkum Reastr Niyum)
Access to the second floor of Balay Negrense
Interior of one of the six bedrooms of Balay Negrense mansion
